East Timor travel guide

Lying off the coast of Dili, Atauro Island is a great getaway destination, either for a full exploration or just a day trip on Saturdays when the ferry goes. There are good walks and, of course, excellent snorkeling, but else the main thing is just chilling out and tuning in to the simple life. The village of Makili, at the southern tip, is known for its wood carvers. If you cannot make it here, you can usually find a few carvers in Dili, selling their pieces in front of Castaway bar at the waterfront.

Beside being the second biggest town in East Timor, Baucau can also boast of a bit grand architecture from the Portuguese period. Sure, the old colonial buildings are falling apart or covered with weed and graffiti, but hey, this is East Timor. The old Mercado Municipal would certainly have been impressive if it was still in use. Now it just lies as a ghostly reminder from the past with grazing goats as the only visitors. Other points of interest are the Catholic church and the public swimming pool, if there is any water in.

A colonial leftover from the Portuguese. It has been through a lot of war, massacres and general neglect. Burnt-out buildings are still a common sight and the roads are dotted with bottomless manholes, but it has edge and charm like a street urchin. The packed Santa Cruz cemetery along with the Truth Committee center CAVR can give some insight of the violent recent history of this young nation. For a bit of tranquility, head for the nice waterfront which has several narrow beaches and clear view to Atauro island. These days the town is fueled by UN and NGO money, meaning there exists a surprisingly good selection of eating places. The best part though, is the locals are still friendly, honest and welcoming.

As you slowly wind your way up from Dili into the hilly backcountry, the scenery turns lush and the air cool. 11 km from Maubisse, a rocky unsealed road snakes off the potholed main road and leads to the little village of Hatubuilico at the foot of Mt. Ramelau (2,963 m). Round wooden houses with thatched roofs are now dotting the sloping fields as you keep going into valley after valley until you get clear views of Ramelau's naked peak. Trek to the top (if you have warm clothes with you) and just enjoy the views before the clouds come rolling in.

Tucked away in a cove on the backside of the hoovering Jesus statue lies one of the best beaches around Dili. It goes under the precise but utterly uncharming name of Jesus Backside Beach. It is a long stretch of white sand with gentle aqua blue water. Even though it is in close proximity to Dili, it is untouched and has some very good snorkeling right from the shore - maybe even some of the best in East Timor.

Check the photo gallery for more Timor beaches along the northern coast.