Places in the countryside in Africa
Like most of rural eastern Nigeria, the countryside around Zaki Biam is dotted with villages made up of round mudhuts with thatched roofs. The town itself has a big bustling market. The local people seems curious, though a bit shy, probably because they don't see foreign travelers that often.
The winding mountain road from Cilaos ends in the small settlement of Ilet a Cordes. It's mostly farmhouses, vineyards, and fields, but the panoramic views over the jagged mountains and Cilaos across the deep craves are just splendid - if the clouds haven't rolled in. The settlement has a end-of-the-world feel, which is funny enough also the official name of the last bus stop here, Terre fine.
Senegal's least visited region is also its most traditional. Far away from Dakar and the Islamic centre of Touba, life here moves slow between the clay-and-straw build huts and a distinct mix of Christianity and animism provide the spiritual guidance. The region is named after the Bassari people, but the villages here are inhabited by different tribes, including Bédik and Fulbe. Common for them all are a fierce independence and almost stubborn rejection of outside influences, whether this have been Islam, colonialism or globalisation. The best time to visit is May when the Bassari village of Ethiolo hosts the traditional coming of age ceremonies. Alternatively, can rituals improving the harvest be experienced throughout the rainy season in the fields outside the Bédik villages. Visits to the villages should be done with a guide who can act as translator and help buy the tributes that must be paid to the village chiefs granting visitors access. Usually these consists of a mix of groundnuts, soaps, candy or whisky – the latter only if a large party is visiting.
A visit to a 19th century isolated and tropical island sounds like a tall order. However, a visit to Karabane Island at the mouth of the Casamance River is indeed just that. Established as a French trading station in the middle of the 19th century it was overtaken by history when the French moved their trade to Ziguinchor in 1901. Since then, the small community here has become even smaller and the building has been left largely to themselves. Besides the old colonial buildings, a number of campements are placed right on the beach. Thus this is a place where it's easy to lose yourself for a couple of days and then some. Here, the hours are passed by rolling out of bed into the water a few feet away, lazing in the sand under the palm trees and eating quality food a couple of times a day. The only break from the illusion of isolation is the modern Dakar-Ziguinchor ferry passing the island once a day.
The main border crossing between Mauritania and Senegal, at Rosso, is notorious for corrupt officials, hustlers and for being a dump of a town. This on both sides of the border. So why not cross the border 100 km to the east? Here are no hustlers and the border officials are friendly and helpful in all kind of matters (even if you have overstayed your Mauritania visa, as we found out). Best of all, the setting is a pretty colonial town. The border crossing itself is done by crossing the Senegal River in small pirogues from the renovated colonial port. Podor deserves a short visit in its own right and due to the scarcity of transportation here it's probably necessarily to spend a night regardless. One or two taxi-brousses go directly between the village of Leksaiba II on the Mauritania side, while transportation to Saint Louis from Podor leaves at first light. Alternative, it's possible to make the trip between Podor and Saint Louis in smaller stages in less than half a day.
© Matt Hamilton
Set on the edge of the Transkei, is the charming village of Chintsa. It is an unspoilt, subtropical piece of the South African coastline, highlighted by a seemingly endless, deserted beach. Many travellers overlook this beautiful nook of the Eastern Cape. Their unawareness is your benefit for it creates an idyllic hidden destination in Chintsa. If your objective is to find a secluded and picturesque corner of South Africa, then look no further.
Chintsa caters to both the active and chilled traveller. For the energetic, there are challenging hikes, great surf breaks and a private game reserve to explore. For the mellow, the empty, sandy beach will be your home. Nestle up against the dunes and spend the day scanning the sea for dolphins and whales. The only problem with Chintsa is that it will ultimately force you to change your itinerary. The village has a wonderful way of ensnaring people and chances are you will spend more time in Chintsa than originally planned.
Chintsa caters to both the active and chilled traveller. For the energetic, there are challenging hikes, great surf breaks and a private game reserve to explore. For the mellow, the empty, sandy beach will be your home. Nestle up against the dunes and spend the day scanning the sea for dolphins and whales. The only problem with Chintsa is that it will ultimately force you to change your itinerary. The village has a wonderful way of ensnaring people and chances are you will spend more time in Chintsa than originally planned.
After Cape Town and Kruger, the Garden Coast is perhaps the best-known place in South Africa. Stretching from Mossel Bay in the west to Storm River in the east along the Indian Ocean coast, it is a beautiful and pleasant part of the country. The road passes through dramatic scenery, from forests and cliffs to pristine beaches and quaint little towns. There are some beautiful parks and reserves here, such as Wilderness and Tsitsikamma, but ‘garden’ is not a misleading name; there is a definite lack of truly wild places here. What there isn’t a lack of is walks, cafes, B&Bs, beaches, picnic spots, boutiques and activities. And make no mistake – the many forests, rivers, beaches and mountains in this area are wonderful. Other attractions include seasonal whale watching (June to September) and the world’s highest bridge bungee jump. If you are looking for an untouched wilderness, the Garden Route may not be for you. But if you want to explore some of South Africa's finest beaches and most liveable settlements without ever being too far from a chai latte or glass of wine – well, this is probably one of the most beautiful places on the continent to do so.
© Matt Hamilton
Nestled at the foot of the Amatola Mountains is a quaint little village named Hogsback. Local legend claims that J.R.R. Tolkien had spent time in this region during his childhood. Furthermore, it is believed that his time exploring the forests of the Tyhume valley served as inspiration for his masterpiece, The Lord of the Rings. Whether Tolkien had any recollection of his time in this picturesque area is arguable but definitely believable. For among the lush, pristine forest with breath-taking waterfalls and complete serenity, you will feel as though you are exploring the setting of a mystical land.
In a country that is dominated by its shoreline, heading inland to Hogsback is a refreshing and stunning change of scenery. The dramatic contrast from the coast makes it easy to forget that you are in South Africa. In the winter months, you might be lucky enough to witness a snowfall. The local charm and the unforgettable surroundings will ensure that Hogsback is a highlight of your journey.
In a country that is dominated by its shoreline, heading inland to Hogsback is a refreshing and stunning change of scenery. The dramatic contrast from the coast makes it easy to forget that you are in South Africa. In the winter months, you might be lucky enough to witness a snowfall. The local charm and the unforgettable surroundings will ensure that Hogsback is a highlight of your journey.
Springbok town itself is not particularly interesting, and for much of the year this region is dry and dusty. Although Springbok itself does not become any more pleasant - which is not to suggest that it is particularly unpleasant to begin with - the surrounding countryside is completely transformed every spring. Starting in August or September, Springbok becomes the centre of the Northern Cape's wildflower route, and is a great base for exploring this part of the country. Goegap Nature Reserve is just a few kilometres out of town, and the fields south and west of here become more colourful as spring progresses. Springbok itself will not keep travellers riveted for very long, but it is the only town of note in between the Western Cape and the Namibian border, and there are certainly worse places to spend a few nights.
Wilderness and its adjacent national park are located right in the middle of South Africa's famed Garden Route. The town is like many others along this 300 km stretch - small and quaint, although the architecture (also fairly typical) is not as attractive as one might expect. But the beach is stunning, and the national park is a real gem for those longing to stretch their legs without having to worry about elephants or lions lurking behind every bush. Lush and well looked after, there are a number of walks through these coastal forests, with plenty of benches, boardwalks and waterfalls. For those not wishing to walk, rivers and lakes inside the park allow for rowing and canoeing. Naming this area "Wilderness" might be a bit overambitious - it feels more like Europe or the east coast of Australia than Africa - but it is without a doubt one of the most worthwhile stops along the Garden Route.