Landscapes in Africa
World class hiking is not usually associated with West Africa. Let alone Guinea. That is, however, what Guinea's Fouta Djallon offers. The landscape is dominated by rivers, rainforest, waterfalls and large mountainous plateaus that resemble giant chocolate bars. Hiking here is in its infancy, which inevitably adds to the excitement. Official guides are available in Conakry, but not in the region itself, though many locals happily act as guides. The exception is an excellent outfit in the village of Doucki that arranges a range of exceptional hikes. Hikers on multi-day walks need to be self-reliant and bring everything they might need. After the initial preparations, the rewards are plenty. It's possible to climb rocky hills for sweeping panorama views of the region's valleys, swing around in vines and lianas, and spot monkeys and chimpanzees. The region also holds more waterfalls and rivers than it's possible to explore in a lifetime, including the source of both the Gambia and Senegal rivers.
One of Guinea's few well-known attractions is a rock face east of the village of Mali (or Mali-ville, not to confuse it with the country of the same name) that ressembles a woman in profile. While this in itself might not be enough to set out on the back-breaking drive from Labé, the area around Mali is excellent for hiking. The village is, sitting at above 1300 m, the highest town in Guinea and to both the east and west two small mountains, Mont Lansa and Mont Louta, dominate the landscape. The Dame is on the eastern side of the latter. There is a small, private tourist office in Mali that operates a basic tourist camp close to Louta and can arrange guides. Market day is Sunday.
Guinea's largest lake is a result of a hydro-electric dam. This explains its peculiar shape, as water filled up the surrounding valleys. The lake is still full of half sunken trees and a few flooded market stalls in the villages that now dots the shore. It's the best place in Guinea to spend time on water, and its relatively short distance from Conakry makes it an excellent day or weekend trip. The lake is best approached from its namesake village, Samaya, on the western shore. Here it's possible to rent pirogues for fishing trips or tours on the lake. Our favourite activity is sailing to the rock islands mid-lake and spend a lazy afternoon picnicking and swimming. The surrounding hills offer stunning views of the lake and are a recommendable hike. Samaya market day is Sunday. There is no formal accommodation in the village, but the (female) chief can arrange lodgings with local families.
The Nimba Range is a mountainous ridge right on the point where the borders of Guinea, Côte d'Ivoire and Liberia congregate. The range is also the highest point of all three countries. The tallest peak, Mont Richard Molard marks the border between Guinea and Côte d'Ivoire. Named after a French geologist who died in an accident on the mountain in 1951, it requires a steep six-hour hike to reach the top. In other words, it's a full day's hike and somewhat challenging. However, it's not a technical climb and doable by anyone with a pair of solid hiking shoes and reasonable fitness. It's worth the sweat as the scenery is stunning and the views out over Guinea, Côte d'Ivoire and Liberia are as breathtaking as the hike itself. Hint: The most convenient place to find guides and start the ascend is the village of Séringbara.
The Mara Triangle is the western third of the Masai Mara National Reserve, covering some 510 square kilometres. It is bordered by the Mara River to the east, the Siria Escarpment to the west and north and Tanzania's Serengeti National Park to the south. This side of the reserve is far better managed than the eastern two-thirds, with mostly good roads. When the migration makes its way to the Masai Mara, the river crossings will generally take place from the eastern side into the Mara Triangle, so it is an ideal place to observe this phenomenon. This can take place anytime from mid-June to the end of the year, although mid-August until mid-October is more usual. Wildlife abounds here: lions, leopards, cheetahs, rhinos, elephants, buffaloes, hippos, zebras, hyenas, giraffes, antelopes and hundreds of species of birds. Most of the Triangle consists of open savannah, although the streams and rivers are lined by woodland. There are picnic spots strewn throughout the Triangle; one of the best is 'Out of Africa', halfway up the escarpment, which provides mind-blowing views of the plains.
The Nimba Range is a mountain ridge right where the borders of Liberia, Guinea and Côte d'Ivoire congregate. The range is also the highest point of all three countries, which Liberians living in the mountain range's vicinity will inevitably boast loud and proudly. They've even convinced the Lonely Planet. The only problem is that "Mount Nimba" refers to the entire range. Mount Nuon-Fa, the single Liberian peak, is either 1,362 m or 1,151 m high, depending on sources. Thus making it Liberia's second-highest peak after Mount Wuteve (1,440 m) in the north. Whether you dare to tell the locals, that's up to you – we didn't. Geographical bickering aside, the peak still makes a splendid outing; a full day's hike through pristine forest from the mining town Yekepa. Alternatively, approach the peak via the mining operation's roads. It's possible to drive almost all the way to the top with a 4x4. And try not to visit during the rainy season were the supposedly fantastic views out over Guinea, Côte d’Ivoire and the higher peaks of Mount Nimba will be obscured by clouds.
Madagascar is sometimes called the "red island". All over the country you can see the red earth rich in iron. While the other tsingy's (of Ankarana close-by and Bemara in the West of the country) are eroded limestone, the red tsingy is completely different. Rain and wind have eroded the red laterite earth creating beautiful white and red shapes. Especially on clear days, the clear blue skies contrast with the reddish pinnacles. It is highly recommended to make the effort of venturing out to the red tsingy, either on a day trip from Diego Suarez or on route to the Ankarana Special Reserve. You will most likely need your own 4x4 transportation as it is located about a one-hour off-road drive away from the main road.
Mali's ultimate lifeline. Not only because it's a source of fresh water and makes it possible to grow crops in the dry Sahel and Sahara; for more than a millennium the Niger has been the main highway for trade between some of West Africa's most important cities and kingdoms. The Ghana, Mali and Songhay Empires lived off the river, and to this day, more goods are transported by way of the river than on Mali's highways. The best way to experience the river is by pinasse, just a few centimetres above the water's surface. Almost all of the 1700 km that flows through Mali is navigable, but most traffic is between the harbours of Koulikoro (for Bamako), Ségou, Mopti and Kabara (for Timbuktu). Tour companies in Ségou and Mopti can arrange comfortable and quick outings on the river, but for the authentic experience find one of the bigger pinasses overloaded with passengers and goods. Saint-like patience and plenty of time are needed for this, but the life around the communal bowls of rice will undoubtedly lift the spirits of any depressed traveller.
Nowhere is quite like Terjit. At least not the oases we have visited. Set in the shade of date palms and a large red cliff, Terjit is a good ten degrees cooler than the surrounding oven of a desert plateau. Add to this two springs running from the cliff – one hot and one cold – coming together in a small pool perfect for a dip before continuing to wind their way through the palm grove in small streams. Just 25 km south of Atar, Terjit is a perfect mid-day break for any journey to or from Nouakchott, or as a place to regroup and gather strength after a desert trek. Locals have not passed up the chance to set up tents, a restaurant and a simple auberge here, so your needs will be catered for.
Alexandra Falls Viewpoint is another impressive waterfall viewpoint on the southern tourist circuit. There are two waterfalls, one right at the main viewpoint partly obscured by the dense vegetation, and one on the far side of the gorge (picture). From the top of a wooden platform you get even more amazing views over the southeastern part of Mauritius.