Nature places in Africa
The only primary forest left in West Africa. That neatly sums up why Taï National Park has earned an inscription on UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites. Nowhere else in the region is a forest where humans haven't logged or introduced new plants – such as coffee or cocoa trees – on such a scale that the original Eco-system has remained intact. Today, a French-run research and conservation NGO administrates visits to the park. A campsite in the middle of the forest ensures easy access to ranger-guided walks to see flora and fauna, which includes mangabey and red colobus monkeys as well as some very elusive pygmy hippos. Here are also chimpanzees, but these will not be ready for tourist visits until 2019, at the earliest. As a bonus, the NGO is also able to arrange other activities, including homestays in the villages surrounding Taï.
Coming face to face with the biggest of the great apes, and one of our closest relatives, is an experience very difficult to put into words, and despite the expense it’s worth every dollar. Choosing DRC over the more conventional gorilla destinations Rwanda and Uganda has both advantages and disadvantages. The two parks in eastern DRC where gorillas are found – mountain gorillas in Virunga, eastern lowland gorillas in Kahuzi-Biega – are more off the beaten track than their cousins in Rwanda and Uganda, although still not more than a few hours drive from the border. Accommodation options are also more limited here, and you’ll be far off the beaten track. On the other hand, you might very well be alone with the gorillas, and unlike Uganda and Rwanda facemasks are mandatory – here, gorilla health and safety come first. Gorilla tracking in DRC not only offers the chance to see two separate species of wild gorillas but a few cute orphans, too: young, rescued mountain gorillas are kept at Senkwekwe at Virunga headquarters.
Most people – even those who have gorilla tracking on their bucket lists – have never heard of Kahuzi-Biega. It’s a real shame, because it’s a beautiful park. Most of it is closed to visitors due to security concerns, but the area around park headquarters is open and safe. This is the only place to get close and personal with eastern lowland gorillas, with terrain varying from thick forest to tea plantations. A nearby primate sanctuary houses chimpanzees and monkeys rescued from captivity, and is an interesting afternoon diversion. Park headquarters are a great place to watch the sun rise, and as this coincides with various ranger exercises and the raising of the Congolese flag, getting up early is well worth the effort. The park is accessed through Bukavu, a lively, messy town on the southern shores of Lake Kivu.
There are four active lava lakes in the world, and Congo has one of them. The majestic Mt Nyiragongo – one of the Virunga volcanoes – has to be one of the natural wonders of the region. From time to time – depending on the security situation as well as weather conditions – it is actually possible to hike up to the rim of the crater and overnight here, with a surreal view of the molten rock below. But even if that’s not possible, or if your fitness level isn't up to the challenge, the nocturnal view of the volcano from Virunga National Park headquarters is mesmerising, its glow and the stars lighting up the night sky.
A small and unassuming horseshoe-shaped island about 20 minutes from Goma, Tchegera is an outpost of Virunga National Park. Its main attraction is, quite frankly, the peace and quiet. Traveling in DRC is incredible, but often very tiring and chaotic, so getting away from the noise can be quite nice. If it's a clear evening, the views of the glowing Nyiragongo are incredible and unimpeded. There's a tented camp, run by the park, and a 15-20 minute walk which takes you along the ridge of the island, as well as opportunities to go kayaking or bird watching. Alternatively, just spread a towel on the grass and enjoy the sunshine...
Africa’s oldest and most biodiverse national park, Virunga is a true gem – albeit one with a violent recent history. Most of the park is still off-limits to tourists due to rebel activity and illegal charcoal burning, but its mountainous heart is once again open to visitors. The main drawcard here is the park’s mountain gorillas, although the recent habituation of a troop of chimpanzees is a great bonus, as is the glowing lava lake of Mt Nyiragongo. A visit to Virunga is not for the faint-hearted – the terrain is rough, the roads rougher, and this is unchartered territory for any form of mainstream tourism – but that is also part of its charm. Also worth a visit is Senkwekwe, a mountain gorilla orphanage at park headquarters, and its sad but beautiful twin graveyards: one for its murdered gorillas, the other for the rangers that gave their lives to protect them.
Gentle giants of the deep. The largest fish in the world. Whale sharks. It doesn't matter what you call them, these massive animals are incredibly elusive. Predominantly solitary, the chances of just happening upon one is slim to none. That is unless you're in Djibouti (specifically the Gulf of Tadjoura) between October and February. It is here whale sharks congregate in one of the highest densities on Earth. While nothing in life is guaranteed, the chances of not only seeing one but multiple whale sharks is about as close to 100% as you'll get. To make things all the better, swimmers and divers load into little zodiacs in a paramilitary-esque operation hoping not only to see them, but to swim alongside them. Truly an amazing experience.
This rather small private wildlife sanctuary is a great place for some low key safari. The reserve is quite pretty, although it lacks the usual spectacular wildlife like lions, rhinos, elephants, lions or buffalo. On the bright side, it means you are allowed to walk or bicycle around the park on your own, something that is rare in Africa. The game consists mostly of impalas, kudus, zebras, warthogs, monkeys and various antelope species, but there are hippos and crocodiles, so stay clear of the water’s edges. The Main Camp, built on the banks of a river, have a sun deck where you can observe these beasts in action mere meters away, with a cold beer in your hand - perfect.
10 % of Gabon is covered by national parks (the highest in the world) and the Reserve de la Lopé is one of Gabon's hidden jewels. There are usually two options for spotting animals. Either a safari drive from the headquarters, where you might see elephants and buffaloes or the monkey/ape trek (lowlands gorillas, mandrills and other monkeys), which requires a 90 minutes adventurous 4x4 drive into the jungle. It's a far less organized experience than the counterparts in Uganda, Rwanda and even D.R.C., where they have a good idea where the gorillas are. In Lope it's a bit more hit and miss, but there is a good chance that you will have to yourself. The road to Lope NP is spectacular, as it passes through rain forest and patches of savannah, but the last 100 km is on a dusty dirt road, so be prepared for a bumpy ride. A more popular option is the train from Libreville, which arrives in Lope in the middle of the night.
The Gambia is synonymous with the Gambia River (the country have even adopted the "the" in its official name. Home to crocodiles, hippos, numerous species of monkeys and apes, and an endless array of birds, the River is the most obvious reason for leaving the coastal resorts. River tours are arranged from the coast, but the real treat is to venture into the interior and onto the Upper River far from the organised tours. Least visited, but with an abundance of life, is the part of the river between Janjanbureh and Basse Santa Su. Both are excellent places to arrange a explorations of the river, regardless whether this is done with a guide or braved alone in a traditional canoe. But beware, if attempting the latter, locals in these parts claim that, "the river does not like foreigners" and it can be difficult to navigate in the smallest canoes for someone without the right experience.