Wilderness in Africa

Parc National de la Pendjari is arguably the most magnificent national park in West Africa – it boasts the largest remaining intact ecosystem in the region. The rugged mountains and wooded savannah is a sight in its own right, but visitors are pretty much guaranteed to see elephants, buffalos, hippos and a vast number of antelopes here. Elusive West African lions and the critically endangered Northwest African cheetah also roam the park. However, to spot any of these predators, superhuman persistence and luck are needed. Only a couple of dozen lions are left in the park and when the cheetahs were last counted, back in 2008, only 5–13 individuals called Pendjari home. As with many of West Africa’s national parks infrastructure is limited and hiring a guide is highly recommended. It can be done at the entrance or at the better hotels in Natitingou. Pendjari National Park was added to the existing UNESCO World Heritage site of Parc National du W in 2017, which now constitutes the vast transnational W-Arly-Pendjari (WAP) complex, spread across Benin, Burkina Faso and Niger.

11,500 km2 of plain, savanna and rainforest bisected by the Comoé River, with inselbergs on its northern rim reaching 600 metres in height. In other words, Comoé National Park has a lot to offer. A lot, except tourist infrastructure, that is. This means that most of the park is strictly do-it-yourself. However, there's hope should you lack your own 4x4, tent and provisions. A research station in the southern part of the park, near the village of Kakpin, can help organise pirogue trips on the river, and a lodge in Kafolo, on the park's northern fringes, arranges safari drives. As for animals, the park is home to hippos, elephants, lions and African wild dogs, but due to poaching in the 90s chances are that you'll have to settle for the bird life, antelopes and maybe the park's dwarf crocodiles if you're sailing the river. The park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its plant diversity, rather than its animals.

Anyone looking for adventure in Guinea, needs to look no further than the Niger River. Running for 4,180 km through five West African countries the river is a lifeline for hundreds of thousands of people across the region. The source of Africa's third longest river is a few days travel west of Kissidougou, heading first to the village of Kobikoro and then to the hamlet of Forokonia by a combination of mototaxis and hiking. Longer adventures can be had by canoeing downriver. The 350 km trip from Faranah to Kouroussa should take between 10 and 14 days, most of which takes visitors through Parc National du Haut Niger. Birds, monkeys and baboons, antelopes, warthogs, crocodiles, and hippos should be easy to spot. It's essential to be entirely self-sufficient and bring waterproof bags for any electronics as capsizing will be almost impossible to avoid. Guides are less important as local fishermen along way can provide advice on any challenging parts of the river. Having your own boat built will likely be cheaper than renting one from the local fishers. A small plank boat for a couple of people should take less than a week to get built.

Liberia's only national park is the second-largest area of primary tropical rainforest in West Africa. The 1800 square kilometres of wild rainforest host around 125 species of mammals, including chimpanzees, Diana monkeys, forest elephants, pygmy hippopotamus and duiker antelopes. Most of these are elusive and endangered, so any sightings require luck. Visitors will more likely enjoy the abundance of bird life present in the park. The national park is still mostly without facilities and not geared to visits from individual travellers – it's, therefore, essential to join up with one of the outfits in Monrovia arranging tours here.

If the coastal towns and villages of Lake Malawi are a bit too busy for you, a wonderful way of exploring the lake is by visiting its many islands. While some of them have resorts or lodges (e.g. Mumbo Island), others are more or less deserted. The area around Cape Maclear is ideal for kayaking, since many of the islands are within easy reach, and camping is usually possible. If you are very unexperienced, it might be an idea to organise for a guide to come with you, but plenty of people set out on their own on trips of varying lengths. It is always possible to arrange drop-offs and pick-ups with local fishermen, but bringing a kayak gives you much more freedom. The only people you are likely to encounter out here are fishermen and the odd diving boat, making it one of the most relaxing, not to mention beautiful, ways of exploring the lake. Just be careful with timing, as the lake can get very windy during the southern-hemisphere winter.

The Nyika Plateau is without a doubt one of the highlights of any visit to Malawi. Nyika is Malawi's largest national park. It consists mainly of rolling green hills, interspaced with woodlands, streams and rocky outcrops. Getting here is not easy unless you can fly in - over 100 km of sometimes very rough dirt roads, an endeavour not to be taken lightly (or attempted without a 4x4) in the wet season. Zebras, elands, bushbuck, reedbuck and roan antelopes abound, and the odds of seeing a leopard are better here than anywhere else in Malawi. At the time of writing, there is only one tourist operator in the park, but there is a choice of camping, self-catering cottages and all-inclusive chalet stays. Nyika abounds with wildflowers, including orchids. In addition to game drives, it is possible to hike, mountain bike and fish in the park, and there are plans to bring back horseback riding in the future. Beware that nights can be very cold, particularly between May and September, so bring lots of blankets or thick sleeping-bags if camping.

To sleep under the stars in the middle of Sahara, is as exotic as it gets. It is of course tempting to fall asleep, but it is actually more rewarding to walk around on the star lit desert floor. There are so much to see; scorpions, mice, snakes and small bugs were all busy getting their dinner. This photo was taken during a trip through Niger, where most nights was spent among sand dunes and under the vast sky. Around midnight the camera got mounted on a tripod for a couple of hours to capture the stars. It is taken at a place about 100 km from the desert city of Bilma, and possible to reach by 4x4, camel, or even walking - the first option being the most comfortable way.

If drifting through dense mangrove forests in a small pirogue, passing quiet villages and tall palms trees is something that makes you tick, the Saloum Delta will be the go-to destination in Senegal. Celebrated for the remarkable synergy between the human inhabitants – the Serer people, whose ancient kingdoms used to occupy the area – and the extensive biodiversity. The delta consists of more than 200 islands and islets that are created by the three major rivers flowing into the Atlantic Ocean and more almost two dozen villages. Through the ages, the inhabitants, living off shellfish, have created 218 shell mounts, some several hundred metres long. 28 of these have further been used as burial mounts. Any visit here will require some patience regarding transportation between the islands and visitors should expect facilities such as running water and electricity to be limited. The delta is best entered from the villages of Djiffer or Toubakouta. Once here, pirogue tours can be arranged by the compartments as well as from the largest village of Niodior.

Nestled in the northern Transkei region, Mkambati is an 8000-hectare, isolated region of South Africa that is often overlooked by travellers. Spend a day exploring the Msikaba River and its forested ravine towards the spectacular Superbowl, a towering 100 m natural amphitheatre. Spend another day rock-hopping the 10 km coastline and the Mkambati River. This snaking river contains numerous swimming holes and waterfalls, highlighted by Horseshoe Falls, a rare double-tiered waterfall that tumbles directly into the Indian Ocean. Every day, as you wander through the grassy plains, you will be surrounded by wildlife. Whether it's the vulture colony, the troops of baboons or the herds of wildebeest and gemsbok that run freely throughout the reserve, you will be amazed at how close to the natural world you are.

Close to the Swaziland border and in the heart of Zululand is the funky, little town of St. Lucia. This is an ideal stop for those looking to explore the African bush and experience its wildlife. St. Lucia lies amidst a World Heritage Site and everything you see will leave no doubt as to why the area has been classified as so. The neighbouring Hluhluwe - Umfolozi Game Reserve, the oldest reserve in South Africa, is home to the Big Five, including the largest population of black rhinos on the planet. Two creatures difficult to spot in the reserves, crocodiles and hippos, are easily found in the St. Lucia Wetlands Park and its 60 km of hiking trails. If being on foot is too close for comfort, then a boat ride up the St. Lucia River, home to hundreds of these fascinating beasts, will provide a safer way to go. However, don't be surprised to find the odd hippo wandering through the streets of town. Following the day's encounters, be sure to kick back in one of St. Lucia's funky cafes or pubs. There is nothing quite like listening to the call of the wild with a cold drink in hand.