Cities and Towns in Asia
Pakse is slowly developing into a charming travel hub. Beside being used as a gateway for the neighbouring countries (yes all of them: Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia) and an access point to the Four Thousand Islands further south, it works nicely as a base to explore the rich surroundings. Within a day, you can visit the Khmer ruins of Wat Phu Champasak, peek over the highest waterfalls in the country and go coffee tasting on the Bolaven plateau. A cheap rental scooter can even bring you around on the multi-days Southern Loop. Back in Pakse, you can relax down at the Se Don or Mekong river with a mandatory Beer Lao in your hand. How easy can it be!
Lovely Vientiane is tiny and unpretentious, and doesn't feel at all like a capital. It is not many years ago when chickens ran around in the unsealed streets. Today, many of the fine old French colonial mansions have been done up and turned into stylish boutiques or artsy cafes for the increasing numbers of tourists, but Vientiane hasn't lost its innocence (yet). Monks stroll down the boulevards, one of the tallest constructions is still the golden stupa Pha That Luang and the best place for a cold Beer Lao is still the Mekong riverfront. So it is hard not to be spellbound by Vientiane's charm.
Xieng Kok is a little settlement on the banks of Mekong River. It is a full day speed boat journey from Houei Xai (Laos)/Chiang Khong (Thailand) and a beautiful spot to spend the night before continuing on to Muang Sing. The Mekong makes a bend here and on the other side lies mystical Myanmar as a green wall of jungle. There is a fairly constant flow of trucks and boats, which make out the only entertainment in the otherwise drowsy town. There is a Akha village a short walk along the Mekong.
Neither as flashy as Singapore nor as crazy as Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur (or just KL as locals call it) is often considered a bit tame, but that just makes it easier to approach for first timers. Dull or not, it does have its own distinct flavour worth exploring. The major attractions are a few major sights along with the ethnic colourful "hoods", Kampung Baru, Little India and Chinatown. If shopping is your thing, KL can match in both price and range what you find in the neighbouring capitals. So if you need to replace some of your travel stuff or just get some western gear, this is a good place to stock up. Or just splurge in the exorbitant selection of street food and restaurants.
The old port town of Melaka (Malacca) has a long and rich history as a sultanate, colonial trading town, and regional powerhouse. Waves of immigrants have arrived through time, adding a piece to Melaka's unique heritage. Today, Melaka still receives hordes of foreigners, this time not from the sea, but in bus coaches armed with cameras and hand fans. The cute well-restored trading houses, the colourful colonial architecture, the temples and the mosques go all too well with the tourists, and the fact that Melaka was granted a UNESCO World Heritage status in 2008 only adds to that. A wonderful spinoff from Melaka's popularity is its famous fleet of bicycle rickshaws, which have been pimped out to the limit that drivers need to push them over any tiny climb due to excessive load of loudspeakers, plastic flowers, parasols... well, anything kitsch - they are super touristic and tacky, but how can you not love them?
Malé is a strange sight when you first see it: Highrises shooting straight up from the azure sea like a tropical Manhattan. It's a congested place with 133.000 people on only 5.8 square kilometres, making it one of the most densely populated cities in the world. The amount of motorcycles seems almost the same and you’re puzzled why anyone would try to drive a car through the narrow streets. So it’s no wonder why the overwhelming majority of vacationers will avoid Malé like the plague, but any capital city is an integral part of a country's identity and should not be missed. And while Malé is not the postcard image of the Maldives, it actually is a nice encounter. The main square, National Museum and both the new and old mosque are all worth a look, but what probably is the most exciting place is the harbour with several smaller indoor markets. In the late afternoon, when the market close, fish guts get thrown into the sea, which attracts dozens of big stingrays. They literally crash on the rocks, while munching away.
The capital of Mongolia is a strange place. Though the city is starting to get high rises made of glass of steel, most of the centre still consists of drape Soviet-style concrete apartment blocks. The huge Chinggis Khaan Square is of course the natural focal point. From here Peace Avenue runs west past the State Department Store, which has the biggest collection of souvenirs in the country. For a real sight, head over to the fine Gandantegchinlen Monastery, which was one of the few monastery which survived the ruthless Choibalsan leadership. But Ulaanbaatar is more about the wicked sights. You don't have to venture too far out into the scruffy suburbs to come by whole neighbourhoods made up of ger camps. Here people live inside the capital in stationary gers. Watch out for the many vicious dogs, for they are not for petting.
Hsipaw is a very lovely little town with a beautiful setting among green fields and a backdrop lush hills. Not much is happening here. The market is well stock and bustling in the mornings when villages people come in, and there are some pretty walks through rice fields to nearby villages and hills - and that is pretty much it. Well, that's not entirely true for Hsipaw has its own Shan palace, which housed the last Prince and Princess of Hsipaw who was deposed in 1962 during the military takeover. Maybe Hsipaw charm lies in the fact that you can rest and reflect, instead of feeling obligated to see another pagoda.
Myanmar is full of long lost places and the little mountain town of Pyin U Lwin is just such example. Located at about 1000m in the cool hills it makes a great getaway from the hot Mandalay in summertime. Sweater shops are the hot thing here and occupy some of the grand old colonial houses that stand along the main street. Tea houses are hidden in the side alleys along with the mosque, church, Buddhist monastery, and even a Chinese temple. Beside bike cycles, the primary transportation is horse wagons and the railway pass by here, making it a grateful stop on the way northeast.
Yangon is rundown. It looks like it was built centuries ago (it was, during mid 1800s by the British) and then left to decay (it was). The once pastel-coloured houses are covered in mold, streets are riddled in potholes, and there are loose hanging wires everywhere. Yangon is soaked in grit and feels very exotic - even for Asia-harden travellers. The traffic is another... hmm, interesting thing in Yangon. You can either take a ride with a tricycle rickshaws, a slow and uncomfortable, but cheap, way to get around, or join the dense crowds on the public buses. Some of these buses are pre WWII and in shocking condition, but nevertheless a miracle since they still run. Newer second-hand buses have been imported from Japan, meaning passengers have to get in and out from the traffic side, since driving in Myanmar is on right side (and left in Japan). Beside getting use to the odd things in Myanmar, Yangon has several interesting sights where the impressive Shwedagon pagoda, of course, tops the list.