Relaxing places in Asia
Sitapur Beach is the sunrise spot on Neil Island, but the rest of the day it's pretty much empty. The serene beach is a mix of rocks and sand on a backdrop of what can only be described as jungle. Don't mind the trash at the viewpoint, because the beach itself is clean. The further you walk on the beach, the more wild the coastline gets with dead treetrunks, big boulders, and vertical cliffs. The beach is a real natural gem, though the water can be too rough for swimming. There is a restricted military area above the beach, but it's ok to venture off to all the connecting coves. Just keep track of the tide, so you don't get trapped midway.
About an hours drive from Pangandaran lies the little fishing village of Batu Karas. It's slowly getting a name as a place to chill and is one of the best places in Indonesia to learn how to surf. The sandy beach is long and split in two, where the southern one has a constant roll of long waves, perfect for beginners. It's still a very quiet one-lane village, but the place is developing.
The beach at Bira is so popular with locals, that it suffers from the crowds. Trash is pilling up everywhere, the congested lanes leading down to the beach are lined with concrete guesthouses and snack stalls, and the actually stretch of sandy beach is mostly used for selfies. However, about one kilometer down the coast you will find Bara Beach. A long - and at some sections narrow - beach with plenty of shade from the black lava rocks. There are a few tranquil resorts, some with wooden terraces overhanging the cliffs and with panoramic views over the turquoise water and reef. There is fairly good snorkeling a short swim from shore, particular where the reef breaks off, but expect current. Bara Beach and the resorts at this end are the reason you should come to Bira – not Bira Beach itself.
Lombok has also a Kuta Beach, which not surprisingly is called Kuta Lombok. The place reminds Bali fans of Kuta Beach Bali thirty years ago. Investors have now started to buy up seafront estate, so maybe in a couple of years it will turn into another tourist ghetto. But until then, Kuta Lombok is a getaway for surfers and travellers with a crave for easy living and nightly acoustic performances. During the day, fishing boats outnumber sunbathers on the long stretch of white sand. Kuta bay is protected by rough hills to both sides and the outer reef makes sure that the waves break a long way from the shore, leaving calm waters for those who fancy a swim. It is a tranquil place with a friendly vibe, but only God knows for how long.
Lovina is not just one place, but a collection of several fishing villages turned tourist hangouts. The coast here is fringed by beaches of black volcanic sand which are alright at the main tourist village at Kalibukbuk, but can be very trashy and littered at the less touristy villages, like Anturan. Most people are coming to Lovina for some dolphin watching and interesting snorkelling, but when those activities have been ticked off, the main thing is doing nothing - and maybe joining the local kids in the sea at sunset. The vibe is very mellow and when you first have declined the initial offers of massage/dolphin carvings/fishing-snorkelling trips/magic mushrooms/etc. you can walk in peace. Traditional life is still lived by the many friendly fishing families giving Lovina a refreshing authentic feel compared to the hectic beach spots in South Bali.
As an alternative to stay inside noisy Padang, you can stay at some of the beaches both north and south of town. Long wide beaches stretch as far as the eye can see, only fringed by tall coconut palms. Thatched huts, used by locals for weekend picnics, are scattered in the palm shades. Simple beach accommodation and food can be found, but don't expect much company - besides fishermen and cheeky children, you will pretty much have the whole place to yourself.
Pangandaran is the beach place on Java. The dark sandy beach is wide and seems almost infinite. There are lots of small guest houses along with bigger hotels, as Pangandaran is popular with local tourists. Luckily, most of these only come here during the weekends and holidays, leaving room for a cool travel and surf vibe at the beach bars during the quiet times. Beside chilling at the beach, there are lots to do in the Pangandaran area. The countryside is a green blanket of rice paddy fields dotted with small villages. You can either go exploring on your own on rented scooter, or go on a self-drive tour with a guide to Green Canyon and Green Valley, which will also take you through the beautiful scenery.
Sengigi is Lombok's sad attempt of a resort area. Though the stretch of beaches has a few fine hotels and eateries, the whole place has an abandon feel to it. Never finished hotel projects lie side by side with overgrowing land slots and pretentious concrete malls with vacant shops. The fairly nice palm fringed beach is patrolled by bored looking beach boys and friendly vendors. So use Sengigi for what it is good at, namely as a base. Eat some nice food, rent a scooter, and then explore the rest of Lombok - or go straight to Gili Islands.
The Togean Islands are a handful of jungle covered islands surrounded by aquamarine water and coral reefs. They are as pretty and postcard perfect as one would imagine with secluded white beaches and shady coconut palms. Thankfully, it takes a long time to reach the Togean Islands, so the Bali crowd haven't found their way here (yet). There are small fishing villages on the islands, but most resorts and guest houses lie isolated with their own beach and reef. The main things to do are snorkeling, diving, and, of course, lying in a hammock, but you can also go on excursions. There are sea gypsies living on the sea, the odd Jellyfish Lake full of harmless jellyfish, hordes of hornbills, and you can even climb volcano Gunung Colo on Pulau Una Una.
Not far from American Village is this artificial city beach with facilities like toilets, parking spaces, enclosed swimming area with lifeguards. It's part the Araha Park, which also includes a basketball court, a playground (with a life size pirate ship), and a promenade for running and cycling.