Copenhagen travel guide
Denmark has some magnificent churches, but Grundtvig's Church still stands out from the crowd with its imposing expressionist architecture. The construction started 1921, but when the mastermind behind the unique design, Danish architect Peder Vilhelm Jensen Klint died in 1930, the church still wasn't finished (his urn was later sealed in one of the walls). The task was then entrusted to his son architect and designer Kaare Klint, who completed the church in 1940. Kaare Klint became even more famous than his father, particularly as a furniture designer, and the chairs he designed for Grundtvig's Church have later become a Danish design icon. The church is named after the Danish philosopher and hymn writer N. F. S. Grundtvig.
The water at the old harbor area at Islands Brygge is so clean that you can swim there, so why not do it. The waterfront at Islands Brygge has been turned into an aquatic recreational area with swimming pools, diving tower, and kayak polo. During the summer months, the waterfront park is buzzing with life. Every single green patch of grass is packed with half naked sun bathers and beer drinkers. A look across the channel offers views of the Copenhagen skyline. Islands Brygge used to be a rough working class neighbourhood with lots of industries, but that is long gone. There are some interesting new development in the area too, like the two former silos, which have been converted into luxury apartments. During winter the area is more quiet, but you might see a winter bather in the morning.
The Istedgade area is Copenhagen's red light district. Though it used to be a lot rougher, the part closest to the main train station is still seedy with plenty of porn shops, drug addicts, and prostitutes. However, the other end near Enghave Plads has transformed into a hip neighbourhood with cocktail bars, indy fashion shops, and gourmet burger joints. It's a real vibrant area, day and night, and is surprisingly safe to stroll through – just stay clear of the hookers and drunks (some pickpockets pretend to be drunks).
Not far from The Little Mermaid lies what looks like a public park, but actually is Kastellet, a preserved star fortresses. The ground of the fortress is pentagram shaped and surrounded by a moat. At the center stands an elegant collection of 17th century army buildings, which are still in use today by the Danish Defense Ministry and therefor guarded by soldiers – but you can walk around. The citadel also includes a church and a pretty, traditional windmill. There are several trails perfect for a stroll or a jog.
Kødbyen, literately Meat Town, is the hipster's favourite place for eating and clubbing. The industrial area used to be blocks of butchers and wholesale shops, but in recent years entrepreneur souls have transformed the industrial halls into raw art galleries, über cool restaurant, and trendy clubs. During the day, meat sale is still the main thing in Meatpacking District, but at night time the area converts into one of the best party zones in Copenhagen – and during the summer, the large parking lot will morph into an open air bar.
It doesn't get more iconic than this, but the (ridiculously) Little Mermaid is a sure runner up as the most overrated tourist attraction. Nonetheless, every tourist feels obligated to swing by this tiny statue, scramble up to the boulder where she sits, and try snap a picture without too many other tourists photo bombing their shot. The history of the statue is actually more exciting than the sight itself. It was made in 1913 based on a fairy tale of the same name by H.C. Andersen. In 1964, she was decapitated for the first time. The head was sawed off and never found, so a copy was made and placed on the headless statue. In 1984, her right arm was sawed off, but returned days later. In 1998 she was decapitated again, but her head was found. As late as 2003, she was blown off the boulder with explosives. So though she might look very innocent, she has a very bleak history.
Nokken is located on the edge of the large (in Danish terms) nature area on the island of Amager. It used to be a community of garden allotments, which are a unique Danish creation dating back to the end of the 19th century. These tiny wooden houses with small gardens were meant for the working class families, who lived in cramped apartments during the week, but left the dirty city on the weekend to grow their own vegetables in the countryside. The ever expanding city border of Copenhagen has finally reached Nokken, so today the fine garden allotments lie side by side with the brand new development of Islands Brygge. The countryside has suddenly become a part of the city.
The old northern harbour area of Copenhagen has been through a heavy residential development. Old industrial buildings have been turned into swanky apartments and more have even been constructed from scratch or is on its way. Nordhavn is now the most expensive neighborhood in Copenhagen per square meters. There are several architect designed harbour baths and the rooftop of a parking building has brilliantly been turned into a public recreational space with 360 degrees harbour views. The most iconic building is probably the former twin cement silos, Portland Towers, which has been converted into a fancy office building by adding seven floors on the exterior, while leaving the interior of the silos to reception, stairs and elevators.
As the central neighbourhoods of Copenhagen are getting too expensive for ordinary people, the outer neighbourhoods are suddenly becoming more attractive. Nordvest (North West) used to be for drunks, old folks and immigrants, but now the undertakers, bodegas and car workshops are getting mixed with trendy bars, art galleries and indie designers. The pole dance academy even got a feinschmecker coffee shop as their new neighbour. Award winning architecture is slowly finding its way in between the old and drab, and colorful murals are again decorating the gable of many apartment buildings. Nordvest is still authentic and raw, so you might need some help falling in love with it. Start at the northeast end of Rentemestervej and walk towards Lygtens Kro.
King Christian IV (1577-1648) was an ambiguous and visionary ruler, who led Denmark into many wars – and lost some of them. But, he was also one of the most productive kings when it comes to development. He ordered the construction of many of the iconic historical buildings you see in Copenhagen today, like Rundetårn (Round Tower), Børsen (Stock Exchange), Kastellet (star shaped fortress), Nyboder (navy barracks), and the list goes on. Nyboder was a row house district for sailors in the Royal Danish Navy and their families. It was (is) a tradition that the sailors wife had a set of porcelain dogs in the window. If the dogs turned their face inward, the sailor was home, and if the dogs faced the street, the sailor was at sea, which was an invitation to the wife’s lover - or so the story goes.