Armenia travel guide

The Noraduz cemetery has the largest collection of cross stones, called khachkars. There should be almost a thousand cross stones (though we didn't count them) spread out over the green hill, all finely ornamented. The oldest cross stone dates back to the 13th century, though most are from the 16-17th centuries when the cross stone tradition boomed. A cross stone normally depicted, besides crosses, the life story of the deceased, what he/she did and how he/she died. So a cross stone for a fisherman will have a fish on it and if he died from a serpent bite, a carved snake will zigzag across the stone. There are also tombstones, again, with fine carvings, for example, one showing how a wedding party got raided by foreign warriors.

Noravank monastery complex is one of the finest in Armenia. It was constructed during the 13th and the 14th centuries and consists of two churches, where one has two floors (and a scary staircase) making it the only double leveled church in Armenia. The same church, Surb Astvatsatsin, has some elaborated carvings, one depicting Jesus flanked by Peter and Paul all with slanted eyes to ease any Mongol army in case they should return (the Mongols looted Armenia from 1220 to 1320, and the church was built in 1339). There is a fine collection of cross stones (khachkars), and tombstones.

In a village above Alaverdi lies the monastery complex of Sanahin, which dates back to the 10th century. It is listed on UNESCO World Heritage list along with neighbouring Haghpat monastery due to their architecture style that was developed in Armenia in the 10th to 13th centuries. It is charmingly moss-covered and sits under shady trees in a messy garden, which just adds to the great atmosphere. There are lots of dark corners to be explored and the ancient graveyard offers some strange modern tombstones with pictorial explanations of the cause of death.

Sevan monastery, Sevanavank, consists of two churches which were both built during the 9th century. It was located on the top of an island, which today is a peninsula, in Sevan Lake. The view across the lake is magnificent though the sight of abandoned Soviet buildings might spoil the magic a bit. Throughout the history, the place has been plundered by various invading armies and it was totally abandoned during Soviet times where stones from the big church, Astvatsatsin, even got used to build a new house in Sevan city. Astvatsatsin church has since be reconstructed and the courtyard holds a fine collection of cross stones, called khachkars.

It seems that the early Christians in Armenia were really fond of splendid views for churches in Armenia are often perched on hilltops or edge of gorges, and Tatev monastery is a prime example. Sitting high on an outcrop at the end of Vorotan Canyon, with impressive views down the length of the canyon, it is surely jaw-dropping. Tatev was constructed in the 9th century and functioned as a university in the 14th and 15th centuries. The complex includes several halls and towers which some were used as library, kitchen and dining hall. The 8 m tall, but damaged, pillar in the corner of the courtyard is said to be an sensor for earthquakes - or approaching armies (Tatev was as looted as any other monastery in Armenia by various armies through times). Today you can "fly" over the canyon to the monastery in the brand new cable-car, which, by the way, is the world's longest with its 5.7 km.

Yerevan is a strange mix of drab Soviet-era apartment blocks, imposing Stalinist masterpieces and new-but-not-finished real estate projects. Even though it is one of the longest inhabited cities in the world, not many buildings pre-20th-century remain, due to the extensive city reconstruction that happened during the Soviet years and which was not fully implemented until recently with the finishing of the Northern Avenue. But this being Armenia, and not Eastern Europe, the street scene is extremely lively with a never-ending range of cafes, some very flamboyant with outdoor couches. Central Yerevan is small and walkable, so you can see the major sights within a day or two. The main sights are Cascade (Soviet monument turned not-completed contemporary art museum), Republic Square (former Lenin Square), Opera House and the surrounding cafe area and Vernissage Market during the weekends... oh, and the majestic views of Mt. Ararat on clear days from the top of Cascade.