China travel guide

China certainly likes to tout its beautiful lakes. And while many lakes closer to the interior of the country are quite nice, few can compare to Karakol Lake. About as far west in China as you can go, this beautifully set lake sees very few tourists, domestic or foreign. And the old adage of "getting there is half the fun" certainly applies to Karakol, as anyone coming to the area is forced to travel along the Karakoram Highway, arguably the most beautiful stretch of road on Earth. Whether opting for a brisk hike in the hills, or merely sitting by the lakeside taking in the spectacular scenery, Karakol is one lake not to be missed.

A main reason for many travellers to visit China is to experience a culture and civilization older than time itself. Sadly, in an age with an emphasis on modernization, many amazing sites are being torn down then built new in the old style. Kashgar, in the far western Xinjiang province, is a perfect example of this. Culturally different with its muslim Uighur population, Kashgar is like nothing else in China. Its old town is a maze of mud brick homes filled with amazing hospitality. But it's quickly disappearing, only to be replaced by a shiny new replica. The only advice is to get here before it's gone.

There are a few legendary markets around the world. The Grand Bazar in Turkey... Merkato in Ethiopia... but few have the allure of the Sunday livestock market on the outskirts of Kashgar. Every week, buyers and sellers and onlookers flock (no pun intended) to an otherwise empty lot to check out the local products. Sheep, goats, horses, camels and nearly everything else in between are up for grabs. Bargaining is hard. And whether it's for breeding, or even better afternoon meal, animals are quickly sold, bought and shipped off to who knows where. The chance to have a nice meal on the grounds is great too. And the meat could not be any fresher!!

This pleasant city is situated at an altitude of 1900 m rewarding it the title as the "City of Eternal Spring". It is one the most relaxing big cities in China with broad boulevards, green parks and a floating river that surprisingly looks clean. Kunming was previously known for its bird and flower market and though this still exists, modern China has also changed the traditional way of life here. Scrubby, but charming, old neighbourhoods are demolished and replaced by shiny new apartment blocks and flashy malls. Luckily, there are still pockets of how Kunming once were and where you can meet some of the many ethnic Chinese, like the Yi and the Muslim Hui minorities.

The lack of freedom to travel independently in Tibet means that getting to know the locals is nearly impossible. However, given just how jaw-dropping the scenery is, most people are willing to sacrifice that independence for a little while.
After spending the day winding your way up the mammoth mountains, avoiding potholes and massive drops, you finally reach the viewpoint above one of the world's highest lakes (4441 m).
Yamdrok Lake is the most stunning turquoise and, given the view of towering massif Mt. Nojin Kangtsang in the distance, it's definitely worth hanging around for a while. That is of course, if you can handle the altitude!

There is something special about the name 'Lhasa', and even before you arrive at the city, expectations are high for the sacred city of the Dalai Lama. This is despite the fact that the Dalai Lama has not been present in Tibet since the 1950s. Still, there is a solemn and sacred atmosphere in Lhasa with lots of pilgrims, prayer wheels, temples, monks and not least the Potala Palace, where 14 Dalai Lamas have resided. However, at the same time you are constantly reminded of China's power around town through the presence of Chinese military/police, security checkpoints, guards on the roof tops around Barkhor Square and Chinese flags competing with Tibetan prayer flags at Lhasa's skyline. Lhasa has an old (Tibetan) town and a new very modern (Chinese) town, and there are now more Chinese inhabitants than Tibetans in the city (about 400,000 in total).

Cruising down the Li River on a bamboo boat nestled amongst the countless peaks and verdant bamboo is a quintessential Chinese experience. While there is also the option of exploring the river with the bigger, faster and more expensive cruise boats, it just feels so much more fitting to take the bamboo option. If you can find a vintage parasol to accompany you on the journey, then your transformation into an aristocratic British traveller from the 1920s (a la "The Painted Veil") is complete.

If taking this option to reach Yangshuo from Guilin, it is likely that the boats will not actually be bamboo but instead made of the far less romantic PVC pipes! So for the genuine experience, wait until you reach Yangshuo- or neighbouring towns before finding a ride.

The Naxi people, who inhabit the region around Lijiang, is a branch of the Tibetan people. They are famous for their script, which is the only hieroglyph script still in use today. The old town of Lijiang is charming at first sight, but is a tarted up version of the original one which got heavily damaged during an earthquake in 1996. The layout is a maze of cobbled streets, narrow canals and wooden shops catering mainly for the Chinese tourists. For make no mistake, Lijiang is Chinese tourist territory and others will often found it too groomed, crowded and tacky. Luckily, you can always explore the countryside or keep going north to Shangri-la and Western Sichuan for the real deal.

The bus journey from Manigango to the Dega, close to the Tibetan border, must rank as one of the most beautiful road trips in the whole of China. Setting out from the small Tibetan wild west town of Manigango, you will first pass the serene mountain lake of Yilhun Lhatso at the foot of Chola Shan (6168 m) and neighbouring snow caped peaks, before slowly ascending the hairpin road to the mountain pass at 5050 m (though our altimeter showed only 4850 m). There are chances to sight both vultures and marmots – and the occasional overturned truck having gone over the edge and crashed down the mountainside. When reaching the pass, locals will (if they are not too carsick) throw colored prayer notes out of the bus windows. From here, the road descends into a beautiful narrow valley carved out by a still flowing river. You will pass by small Tibetan villages, Buddhist stupas and monasteries with prayer flags going in all directions, before arriving (hopefully) safely in Dege.

Making your way to the top of Moon Hill in Yangshuo is the best way to appreciate the simply incredible landscape that the region is famous for. There are over 70,000 karst (landscape largely shaped by the dissolving action of water on limestone) peaks in the area and from this vantage point it appears they continue indefinitely! This is a view best experienced without the crowds but given the photo opportunity it offers, is usually full of domestic tourists. So make an effort to come early... or in the off-season. If you are into rock-climbing, it is also possible to climb some of the existing routes to the peak.