Ecuador travel guide

Just outside the village of Cañar, and an easy day-trip from Cuenca, lie the ancient ruins of Ingapirca, the largest known and best preserved Incan ruins in the country. Dating back several hundred years, the ruins are an interesting mix of Inca architecture and local indigenous Cañari input. The most recognizable structure is the Temple of the Sun, a round partial tower built around a centre-piece stone. The ruins might not compare to Machu Picchu, but then again, what ruins can? The site is also the location for a number of festivals and rituals that might take a bit of luck to stumble upon.

The advanced civilization of the Incan empire was full of tradition and ceremony. But few festivals were more important than Inti Raymi (Festival of the sun). Celebrated around the (Southern) winter solstice (June 21/22), the occasion is commemorated in a number of places throughout the former empire, including Ecuador. Places like Otovalo or Ingapirca are likely the best places to see traditional dances and costumes from, not only local but international groups who come to contribute to the festive atmosphere. It's a wonderful opportunity to take in some ancient culture, just be careful with the Chicha, the fermented drink saved especially for the festival!

Laguna Quilotoa is an impressive crater lake at the elevation of whooping 3800m. The diameter of the volcano crater is 3km and apparently the depth is 250m. The water is deep green which turns to psychedelic wasabi green along the shore. Just to top off the picture-perfect view, several snowcapped volcanoes are dotting the horizon. Getting here can be rough, but the trip goes through the most lovely high altitude countryside, where the mountain slopes are cultivated by tough farmers. Not just a place at altitude, but also attitude.

Ecuador's full of national parks. It can be tough to pick and choose. But Machalilla National Park must certainly be in the running for one of the best parks in the country. The park is a two-part adventure: the mainland and the islands. On the mainland, a series of trails cut through the apocalyptic dry forest which seems dead during the dry season. While you can visit a number of small, relatively empty beaches, it is Las Frailes that is the highlight (often touted as the best beach in Ecuador). Then there's Isla de la Plata. Nicknamed the "Poor man's Galapagos", the island offers an opportunity at some amazing wildlife viewing, including nesting Boobies and migrating whales. Certainly, wildlife+forests+beaches must equal a fine place to visit.

The huge Saturday market in delightful Otavalo is popular with locals as well gringos. The town square is packed with small stalls offering an massive range of knitted and weaved souvenirs in all colours of the rainbow, some more authentic looking than others. Down the side streets more local goods are sold by the beautiful dressed indigenous people. Both the men and women still wear their traditional clothes, which for women is a white embroidered blouse and a folded scarf on the head, and for the men white trousers and shirt. Both have long hair that is plaited and hanging down their back.

A small settlement on the river bank where Rio Napo and Rio Misahuallí­ meet. The road does not ends here, but if you want get any further into the jungle a canoe is necessary, which luckily can be hired along with guides. Puerto Misahuallí­ is not as popular as Tena, the rafting capital of Ecuador 20km away, as a launching place for trips into the Amazon, but it is far more charming. The peace in town is very slow (to the point of boredom) and the most exciting activity is monkey watching at the square. Things to visit in the area include caves, waterfalls and tranquil village life, but don't expect any naked natives, beside the cheeky monkeys.

Nobody will claim that Quito is pretty, but it does have its charm if you scratch the ugly concrete surface. The city is spread out along the valley at the foot of the Pichincha volcano, which certainly gives you some nice views. The old town (centro historico), which has been an UNESCO heritage site since 1978, has its fair share of colonial buildings and more than a handful of wonderful old churches. Check out the unfinished and rather drape neo-Gothic church, Basilica del Voto Nacional. Instead of having the usual mythical figures, the spires are decorated with Ecuadorean fauna, like Galapagos tortoises and penguins. Quito is not the best place in Ecuador, but neither is it as horrible as its bad reputation.

The cloud forests in the eastern part of Ecuador make up for some of the birthplaces of the mighty Amazonian rainforest. Waters here eventually trickle, little by little, down to the Amazon basin. Well, the water all trickles except for the thunderous San Rafael Waterfalls which has a drop of 150 m. Not frequently visited, the falls are the largest known falls in the country. Viewing areas are easily accessible from the main road heading up to Lago Agrio. However, due to some unsavoury (read dangerous) activity in the region, few people make it out this way. The falls are well developed, with trails and viewing platforms. Sadly, with a hydro-electric dam planned for a bit upstream, the days of the mighty falls are certainly numbered, a real shame. See it now while you can.

Every Thursday the town of Saquisilí turn into one giant market. Actually it is several markets that are spread over the town. Indigenous people from remote villages in the surrounding hills come in to sell their goods, whether it is a goat, old shoes or a bag full of guinea pigs... and they are not sold as pets. The people are covered under colorful ponchos and felt hats sporting a fashionable peacock feather. It is a wonderful messy and rowdy affair, that starts early and phase out around midday. While Otavalo market is for tourists, this is the real deal.

In the village of El Quiche, just outside Quito, stand a church. Well, actually it's a sanctuario. The difference being the sanctuary is built on the site of a miracle to commemorate the event. But this particular sanctuary, El Santuario Virgen de El Quinche, didn't stop with only one miracle. Over the years the place has been granting wishes to countless. Those who had their wishes granted have posted plaques on the north wall of the building. Faithful come at all times, but the best time to see the place is the 21st of November when 1,000s of pilgrim descend on the tiny town after an all night hike from Quito. Probably the biggest such festival in the country.