Haiti travel guide

The Blue Pools (Bassins Bleu) is one of Haiti's natural treasure. They're a series af beautiful blue pools linked by small waterfalls. The first two pools are easily reached from the entrance by walking and crossing some streams, where locals do their laundry. The third pool lies right above the others in a hidden grotto with a tall waterfall at the back. Locals dive in from the top of the waterfall, though it's recommended just to take a swim yourself. To reach the third pool, you need to descent a few meters with the help of a rope. It's easiest to get to the entrance of Bassins Bleu with mototaxi from Jacmel, a trip with great panoramic views over Jacmel Bay. There is a small fee at the entrance and local guys will offer to guide you for a tip.

Heralded as "one of the best examples of the art of military engineering of the early 19th century" by UNESCO, Citadelle Laferrière is easily one of the most impressive forts in the Americas in a spectacular setting. While the citadel's history is fraught with scandal of a despot king built around Haiti's independence from France around 200 years ago. Part of the allure of the site is just getting there. Whether you choose to sweat out the long hike on foot, or do it bouncing on a horse it's up to you. Either way, the citadel is well worth the effort. It is not only a highlight of Haiti, but it is arguably the best site of its kind on the continent.

Squeezed in by mechanics workshops and slum, lies the Grand Rue Artists open air gallery. It's a massive collection of voodoo art made out of scrap by several artists. Some pieces even feature human skulls, which the artists claim to have found in the rubble after the earthquake. It's a wonderful shocking and sick collection. Everything is of course for sale, but don't be fooled by the trashy appearance of the place, these pieces can cost up to 20.000 USD.
The gallery also has a photo wall with pictures taken right after the earthquake.

The charming town of Jacmel on the Caribbean coast is as tranquil as you get it in Haiti. Though it's only three hours drive from chaotic Port-au-Prince, the people's attitude is more friendly and... well, Caribbean. As an old port town it still has some fine old buildings with iron balconies, but unfortunately those were also affected by the earthquake. The local market, which is called the Iron Market just like the one in Port-au-Prince, is a wonderful mess with easy-going people. But it's the many small art and craft shops, that Jacmel is famous for, and which bring life back to some of the old dilapidated trader warehouses. Unfortunately, not everything is cute in Jacmel, the town beach – though long - is awful dirty, but luckily Jacmel is surrounded by other and more appealing beaches, not to mention the Blue Pools (Bassins Bleu).

While public long distance buses, either big buses or minibuses so-called taptaps, are dirt cheap in Haiti, they will only bring you from bus station to bus station. From that point you are in the hands of motorcycle taxis, unless of course you know the rutes of the local buses or shared taxis (every car which has a red string hanging from the rear-view mirror) and they go where you want to go, which is very unlikely. So chances are that you at some point will end up on the backseat on a mototaxi. These mototaxi drivers are usually very friendly and honest, in the sense that they will stick to what everywhere price you have agreed on beforehand. The only downside is there are often a sea of them and they will literally get into fights with each other for your business. Best practice will be, say where you want to, the price you want to pay (negotiate), and pick the one who looks like the safest driver, for some drive like maniacs.

Let's be honest, Port-au-Prince is by no means a pretty sight, but it's not as bad as its reputation either. The city is still recovering from the devastating 2010 earthquake. Debris are everywhere, though new grey concrete and cement have taken over. Sightseeing in Port-au-Prince are normally confined to the downtown area which includes: Iron Market, remains of the cathedral, tower of the not-so-eternal flame (it has never been lit), the museum, and a wicked voodoo art gallery. Walking around can be very overwhelming as streets are chaotic and crowded with vendors, pedestrians, buses, mototaxi, and, of course, white Toyota Landcruisers with UN or NGO logos. However, if you dare, you can always jump on one of the many mototaxi and let the driver navigate the madness. For a bit of perspective, and maybe a sundowner, take the trip up to the observatory in the hills for panoramic views over the city and valley. And from that distance, Port-au-Prince can be very appealing.

If you're going to declare yourself a king, you need a palace. Sans-Souci Palace was the royal residence of King Henri I, although folks around here call him Roi Christophe. This was supposed a gem of a building; beautiful with no expense spared. Sadly, an earthquake in 1842 destroyed much of the building and it was never restored. It is hard to believe that chances are any given traveller will have the ruined palace to themselves. If it were in any other Caribbean country, it would be overrun with tour buses. Instead, San-Souci sits alone in a quiet valley. The site is an absolute must especially since it is little doubt mass tourism will come eventually.

The market area in downtown Port-au-Prince is dominated by the red iron structure known as the Iron Market (Marché en Fer). The building with its twin halls, clock tower, and four minarates was originally constructed in France in the late 19-century and intended as the main train station in Cairo, but for some strange reason ended up in Haiti. It was heavily destroyed during the earthquake, but got quickly rebuilt. The northern hall has a strange mixed of crafts, art, tacky souvenirs... and voodoo stuff, like small dolls with needles in.