Indonesia travel guide

Lombok has also a Kuta Beach, which not surprisingly is called Kuta Lombok. The place reminds Bali fans of Kuta Beach Bali thirty years ago. Investors have now started to buy up seafront estate, so maybe in a couple of years it will turn into another tourist ghetto. But until then, Kuta Lombok is a getaway for surfers and travellers with a crave for easy living and nightly acoustic performances. During the day, fishing boats outnumber sunbathers on the long stretch of white sand. Kuta bay is protected by rough hills to both sides and the outer reef makes sure that the waves break a long way from the shore, leaving calm waters for those who fancy a swim. It is a tranquil place with a friendly vibe, but only God knows for how long.

Lake Toba (Danau Toba) is the largest lake in Southeast Asia. Going to Lake Toba usually means going to the island of Pulau Samosir in the middle of the lake. The island (well, actually a peninsula) is equally large and packed with stunning scenery of green mountains and ancient culture of the Batak people. Toba itself is a volcanic crater lake more than 500 m deep, so the clear water is always refreshingly cold. Once, Lake Toba was a must destination for groovy backpackers, but those days are long gone and the backpacker strip in the traveller friendly village of Tuk Tuk feels a bit deserted nowadays.

As always, the best way to explore any place is with your own set of wheels, and Lombok is no exception. Rent a scooter in Sengigi and take off on the Lombok Loop, that circles the majestic volcano cone of Gunung Rinjani (3726 m). Stop at deserted beaches, hidden waterfalls, small villages and ancient tombs, while driving through an ever changing landscape that passes rice paddy fields, palm groves, jungle and even a mountain pass. You can cut across the island and only do the northern half, or continue south to include the whole of Lombok. The full circuit can be rushed in four days, but deserves more, and can be done like this: Sengigi – Senaru – Pusuk pass (1600 m) – Sapit – Labuhan Haji – Kuta Lombok – Sengigi.

Lovina is not just one place, but a collection of several fishing villages turned tourist hangouts. The coast here is fringed by beaches of black volcanic sand which are alright at the main tourist village at Kalibukbuk, but can be very trashy and littered at the less touristy villages, like Anturan. Most people are coming to Lovina for some dolphin watching and interesting snorkelling, but when those activities have been ticked off, the main thing is doing nothing - and maybe joining the local kids in the sea at sunset. The vibe is very mellow and when you first have declined the initial offers of massage/dolphin carvings/fishing-snorkelling trips/magic mushrooms/etc. you can walk in peace. Traditional life is still lived by the many friendly fishing families giving Lovina a refreshing authentic feel compared to the hectic beach spots in South Bali.

Sumatra is not just jungle, volcanoes and other wonders of Mother Nature, it also has Medan, the third largest city in Indonesia and the main gateway to Sumatra. Though it's polluted, dirty and noisy, it's actually not too bad. It still has some jalans with colonial appearance and some interesting markets. Motor becaks (rickshaws) roam the streets and Medan probably has some of the most pimped-out opelets (minibuses) ever - some of them hardly have any space left for passengers due to their oversized speakers which are turned up to max.

From the outside this huge concrete mosque doesn't like much, but the inside is kept in a 70s Sci-Fi style, all shinny and metallic. It was built in 1978 and can hold up to 200,000 worshippers, making it the largest mosque in Southeast Asia. You are welcome, also as a none-Muslim, to go inside and have a look at the courtyard and the praying hall from the upper deck. The praying hall is for Muslim only. They visitor center will provide a cloak if you're not dressed properly free of charge, but a donation is strongly encouraged.

Mount Bromo, Gunung Bromo, is one of three volcanoes inside a larger caldera. Yes, volcanoes inside volcanoes. The whole Mt. Bromo experience normally involves seeing the sunrise from the viewpoint of Penanjakan overlooking the gigantic Tengger caldera (10 km across), which besides holding Mt Bromo (2,329 m), Mt Kursi (2,581 m), and Mt Batok (2,440 m) also has the Sea of Sand, a plain of volcanic ashes. From the viewpoint you descent into this lunar landscape (in jeep), for then ascent the smoking Mt Bromo on foot (or horse). You can walk on the rim and, if time, circuit the whole Mt. Bromo crater (1 h). Mt. Bromo is a major tourist attraction for both local and foreigners, so don't expect to get it to yourself. Most travellers go on an organised tour from Yogyakarta, but you can also do it yourself from Cemoro Lawang. For the true adventurer, there is a 3-4 day hike that can be done from the backside of the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park. It is a wonderful hike and gives you a chance to see some wildlife.

The summit of volcano Rinjani, Gunung Rinjani, (3,726 m) is not only the highest point on Lombok, but the second highest volcano in Indonesia (Gunung Kerinci on Sumatra is the highest). Rinjani is active, and so is the smaller and newer volcano, Baru Jari, inside its crater. Beside the new smoking mini cone, the crater also contains a holy lake called Segara Anak. Both the summit of Rinjani and the crater lake are considered sacred by the local Sasak people who climb the mountain as pilgrims, but anyone is welcome to do the trek when it is considered safe. There are several routes and the treks can be done from 3 days. You can arrange guide, equipment and porters in either Senaru, Sembalun Lawang or Sapit, though Senaru seems as the most popular starting place.

Mount Sibayak (Gunung Sibayak) is the other hikable volcano outside Berastagi beside Mount Sinabung (2,450 m). From the distance, Sibayak is less impressive than the perfect-cone Sinabung, but the hike to the crater is less strenuous and can be done leisurely in a couple of hours. The smelly volcano crater has two peaks, Puncak Antene (2,057 m) and Tapal Kuda (2,101 m). Both can be reached with a bit of scrambling and you will be rewarded with spectacular views, but don't underestimate the danger, for the cliffs are sheer and the rim is narrow. The highest peak on Sibayak mountain is Pintau (2,212 m) but it's remote, forested and inaccessible. The are several routes to the crater but some of them, if not all, can be a bit difficult to find at the start, so ask around. If you take the route down on the backside, you will pass the hot springs at Semangat Gunung (also known as Raja Berneh). Though Sibayak is considered to be one of the most accessible volcanoes to trek in Indonesia, people still get lost or hurt - an information displayed on a rusty sign at the bottom - so take care.

There are two volcanos near Berastagi that can be trekked; Sibayak (2,212 m) and Sinabung (2,450 m). The latest being the tallest one with the best view. The start of the trail can be difficult to find, but else fairly easy to follow to the top, where the stunning views are waiting. There are steep sections, where the use of hands is necessary. The trek can be done in one day from Berastagi town, but remember to get down from the summit in time before dark. Keep in mind that Mt. Sinabung is an active volcano, which can erupt anytime.