Kyrgyzstan travel guide

At the foot of a mountain massif lies the village of Arslanbob in a forest of walnut trees. Here the land lots are big, making Arslanbob very spread out, and many houses are traditional built with mud plastered walls. The roads are equally "traditional"; winding and of dirt and rocks. It's a very friendly places where the old men sport long white beards and female wear headscarf (Uzbek style, meaning colourful and not matching the dress). Due to its relatively high elevation at 1,500 m, Arslanbob is a favourite weekend destination among "low-land" Kyrgyz from Osh who are shuttled between sights in open jeeps. Besides the walnut forest, which is a real attraction during picking season in Autumn, the area offers several waterfalls (the big one mores scenic than the small), holy lakes (three-day trek) and great day-trek destinations, like the Holy Rock which soar 1,400 m above the village. For more serious trekkers, there is the 14-days trek to Song Kul.

Perhaps initially perceived as a little rough and tumble, the Kyrgyz capital of Bishkek has a few surprises up its sleeves. The undisputed transport hub of the country, a visit here is almost inevitable. But what may come as a shock is there are more than enough things to do to keep one busy for a few days. Lots of Soviet-era monuments and architecture. A couple of museums (including the excellent Historical museum), dirt cheap theatres (ballet and opera) and even a circus will keep culture vultures more than occupied. Several old-school markets make for excellent shopping and people watching. A decent supply of restaurants and cafes line the treed boulevards making for relaxing dining. Not to mention a fair share of clubs and bars to rock the night away. Plus several chilled parks if it all gets a little much. You have to make an effort to actually get bored in Bishkek.

Latvia has Jūrmala Beach, Georgia has Batumi Beach, and Kyrgyzstan has Cholpon-Ata Beach. A resort town favoured during the Soviet-era by tourists from all over USSR. Today, Cholpon-Ata can still pull the crowds during the insanely hot summer months. Mostly, it's local families decked out in inflatable plastic and beach tourists in neon swimsuits from neighbouring Kazakhstan, who roll around in the sand. The natural setting is still spectacular at the sandy shore of crystal clear Issyk Kul Lake with picturesque cragged mountains on two sides, both across the lake and towards Kazakhstan. However, the development in Cholpon-Ata is less impressive. An odd mix of concrete houses, never-ending rows of shashlyk stalls, and Central Asia kitsch, like beer yurts, but it all adds to the unique holiday vibe that Cholpon-Ata is so full of.

Central Asian nomads have a special bond with their horses. And while these animals are a source of kymyz (fermented mares milk) they are also used for transport. And the Kyrgyz do it with flare. Every summer, the young men put on a show of their tremendous horse riding skills in a series of games. Everything from chasing down a prospective bride (Kyz kuumai) to trying to pick a cloth off the ground at full gallop (Tyiyn Enmei) to wrestling on horseback (Kurosh) to the magnificently gruesome polo played with the carcass of a decapitated goat (Ulak Tartysh or Bushkashi). If you'll excuse the pun, when it comes to these traditional games, these guys aren't horsing around.

Karakol is located at the foot of the beautiful Terskey Ala-Too range and is the access point for trekking trips into the mountains. It's a gritty trading post with tough looking people. The streets are potholed, weeds are taking over the sidewalks, and nothing has been built (or painted) since the Soviet era – or so it seems. However, the town does have some charming sides. The wooden Russian Orthodox church is lovely and the colourful ornamented houses are rather cute, although neglected like the rest of the town. But the real jewel is the backdrop of snow-capped peaks right outside Karakol. A constant reminder of why you're here, namely to go trekking!

Located halfway down the obscure dirt track that links the Suusamyr Valley with Kochkor town, the village of Kyzyl Oi, though in the middle of nowhere, has been blessed by surroundings so majestic they will likely make even seasoned Central Asia travellers stop and stare. The trip here is worth it for the drive alone which, if coming from Suusamyr, takes you along a narrow track hacked into the wall of an immense canyon with throthy white waters crashing against the rocks ten meters below. On the main street of the village itself is a tiny guest house. They have a few beds and can organise guides to nearby herders' yurt encampments in the mountains. They are also happy to give directions to those keen to trek on their own to the yurts, the nearest of which are three to four hours away.

This pretty alpine lake sits at 3000 metres above sea level and is ringed by mountain peaks reaching 3500 metres in height. You cannot walk for more than an hour along its shores before spotting a cluster of yurts. A few are especially for tourists and run by Community Based Tourism (CBT), but the majority are shepherds up here with their flocks. Either way, if they see you on your own, they will likely invite you in, CBT in the hope of gaining some business or shepherds simply out of interest and desire to have a chat with a foreigner over a bowl of kumis (fermented mare's milk). It's possible to hire a car or book a tour to come here from the towns of Kochkor or Naryn, but you can also hitchhike, cycle or trek. There are dozens of tracks and paths leading over the mountains to come here. One, passable only on foot or by horse, comes from the village of Kyzart near Jumgal to the north of the lake, while another mind-blowingly beautiful one comes from Ak-Tala to the south and is passable by car.

The ever romanticized title of "nomad" is one many travellers use for self-labelling. But this lifestyle of making no permanent home is not best exemplified by an extended trip around the world. Instead, it is the practice of countless generations upon generations. Such is the lifestyle of the Kyrgyz herdsmen. While true nomadism may be a thing of the past, every summer, glimpses of this past spring to life in the high alpine pastures (jailoos) of Kyrgyzstan. Herdsmen lead the livestock up into the hills, set up the traditional tents (called a Ger or Yurt) and let the sheep feed. But what is undoubtably more interesting than merely a photo-stop is the opportunity to share this life (for a few days anyway). Drinking fermented mares milk, hiking in pristine nature, all while wearing a traditional Kalpak are just a few of the highlights of a yurt stay. Truly memorable.

What once was an important trading town on the Silk Road, has since been Soviet-nified and is today the second biggest city in Kyrgyzstan. Most, if not all, of the glam and charm from the ancient days are long gone, but the wonderful bazaar is still huge and easy to get lost in. Locals - and foreigners – bargain over anything from fruit, bread and nuts, over textiles to livestock – and souvenirs. Besides trade, Osh also play the role as the regional transport hub. No matter whether you are going to/from Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, or China, you will most likely pass through Osh.

Sary Moghul village is less visited than its neighbour Sary Tash, which lies 30 km away on the Pamir Highway connecting Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. However, the detour here rarely disappoints. The area offers spectacular views of year-round snowy mountains, including Lenin Peak (7,134 m), Kyrgyzstan's second highest and the world's easiest mountain to scale over 7,000 metres. You can trek to the top of Lenin Peak with no actual climbing or need for ropes, the only problems being altitude sickness and very unpredictable weather. Even if you're not a mountaineer, Sary Moghul is well worth a visit in itself. The people here are very strict Muslims. Unusual for Kyrgyzstan, when the call to prayer begins, you will see even young children in the streets drop to their knees to prostrate themselves. People observe Ramadan strictly even when it falls in summer, depriving themselves of food and water all day while they work in the fields in blistering heat. There are plenty of trekking opportunities to lakes, yak herders' yurt encampments and mud-built farmsteads in the surrounding mountains.