Kyrgyzstan travel guide

There is certainly a niche market for those in search of yesteryear. For many reasons, icons of the pomp and pageantry of the former Soviet Union are often high on the wish list of those travelling through the greater region. Perhaps no place in the former USSR is better to get a fill of soviet-ness than the Kyrgyz capital of Bishkek. From the military precision of the changing of the flag in Ala-too square to the very pro-soviet imagery in the historical museum to the occasional statues of Lenin still gracing public parks, memories of a bygone era are everywhere. Who knew that a trip to Bishkek would be transport to the past?

This valley, ringed by gargantuan, lusciously green mountains, has everything most people are looking for in a trip to Kyrgyzstan: spectacular scenery, lots of yurts inhabited by hospitable horse and sheep herders and - wait for it - almost weekly games of Ulak, the traditional Kyrgyz horseback sport where everyone competes for a goat carcass. Don't think half-hearted 5-man games put on by agencies especially for tourists, think utter mayhem with fifty yurt-dwelling herders coming together from all over the valley most Saturdays, racing up and down a boulder-strewn mountainside and wrestling one another on horseback for the goat carcass. Suusamyr is one of the least visited parts of Kyrgyzstan, possibly because of the lack of tourist facilities or any public transport coming here from anywhere else. Two roads lead in - the jaw-droppingly scenic one to Kyzyl Oi, passable only by hitchhiking or hiring a private vehicle, and another one that branches off the main Bishkek - Osh road. Irregular shared taxis come to Suusamyr from the town of Kara Balta about an hour by bus from Bishkek.

Border crossings these days tend to be little more than formalities. They rarely pose any real challenge and more often than not might even go unnoticed. This is certainly not true for the Torugart Pass. This crossing, bridging a very remote part of the Kyrgyz-Chinese border, is truly remote. But the major draw for many travellers is the fact that it is technically illegal for foreigners to use. However, there are ways around this. If a traveller is on a "tour" (a car with a pre-arranged guide, with a driver to the border and another driver to meet you on the other side), the pass may be used. This involves a series of permits, transport connections visas and other logistical challenges which spice up the typical border crossing routine. There might not be any better endorsement than beautiful, remote and illegal.

Bishkek has a gorgeous backdrop of snow capped mountains. Within an hour you can go from staring at drab Soviet era monuments in downtown Bishkek to be trekking on a mountain side, gawking at cragged peaks and crossing mountain streams. One of the most easily accessible areas is the Ala-Archa Canyon about 40 km south of Bishkek. There are several great trails which can be done as a day trip, including the six hours loop in the wooded and pretty Adygene Valley. Otherwise, there are plenty of multi-day trails leading up to passes, glaciers, and peaks (climbing gear and skills needed), where Semenov Tianshanskii (4,895 m) is the highest.

Trekking outside Karakol means trekking in the Terskey Ala-Too mountain range, which is part of the Tian Shan range. The three most popular valleys are Karakol Valley, Arashan Valley and Jeti-Öghüz Valley, which are all connected to each other through mountain passes. The scenery is just spectacular with racing rivers, alpine lakes, and snow-covered peaks above 5,000 m. There are lots of tough-looking, but very friendly, shepherd families with their herds of sheep, horses and cows in the area. It's usually fine to camp in an undisturbed spot – but beware of the shepherd dogs, they are vicious. In Arashan Valley, which is famous for its hot springs, there are even simple lodges at Altyn Arashan, making it the perfect destination for those without camping and cooking equipment. Trek in and make Altyn Arashan the base while doing day trips into the neighbouring valleys.

The walnut forest in Arslanbob is claimed to be the biggest of its kind, though we don't know of any other candidates. The walnut trees are everywhere in Arslanbob Valley; in gardens, in groves, along the roads. Walk in any direction except towards the mountains and you will evidently end up in a walnut forest. The easiest forest to reach is probably the one above the small waterfall in the east end of Arslanbob. The picking season is from mid-September, where everyone seem to be out collecting walnuts.

This 83 meters high waterfall might be Kyrgyzstan highest. We don't think it has a name, but it's popular destination for domestic tourists to Arslanbob. It's a three hours walk return from Arslanbob.