Mozambique travel guide

The Mozambicans really are a friendly bunch. They are chilled, patient, and good humoured. Even more endaring is their honesty - something you even can expect from bus boys and taxi drivers, though there are a few exceptions. Wherever you go, you will (if you are a man) shake hands (African way of course, if you don't know they will teach you) and exchange names and formalities. Even in small places where you constantly bump into the same people, greeting is still performed like you were meeting up as long lost friends. So the helpful Mozambicans certainly make it easier to endure another full day journey in a rattling, overpacked minibus.

Mozambique Island is the cradle of African colonialism and so soaked in history that it's deserved a UNESCO site. First came Arabian traders, and later the Portuguese. It became one of the central ports for the slave trade and was for a long time the capital of Portuguese East Africa, leaving the island with a density of colonial buildings not matched by many other places in Africa. What makes Mozambique Island further unique today, is that people are living in and among these decayed mansions, giving the island an almost squatter feel. Most of the historical sites are at the northern end, where the once cobbled streets are now sandy and potholed and the crumbling once-grand buildings stand neglected among bushes and shady trees. The southern end of the island is a densely populated shack town with easy going people. There are also several beaches around Mozambique Island, but they are mostly used by playing children and fishermen fixing their boats, but local guys will be happy to do boat tours to nearby islands. However, Mozambique Island's charm is the old houses and laid back atmosphere.

Nampula is not as worse as some might say. Sure, it's a gritty town without any attractions and people seem to have more edge here than elsewhere in Mozambique. Even the police seems to be on the lookout for easy money by checking travellers' papers frequently. But since Nampula is the traffic hub for the west bound trains towards Malawi, the north-south route, and for catching a minibus out to charming Mozambique Island, it might be hard to avoid a stay here. In that case, try to get out to the spectacular lush countryside where odd granite domes rise abrupt from the otherwise flat landscape of villages, scrubs and baobab trees.

Pemba is the most important city in northern Mozambique, a major port and the gateway to the Quarimbas Archipelago. It's a spread-out affair, occupying a peninsula facing Pemba Bay. The city has some nice colonial architecture, although of a more recent generation than other parts of Mozambique, and a local market selling arts, crafts and traditional silverwear. But most people don't come here to enjoy the charms of the city itself, but to get in the water: Pemba is the diving capital of northern Mozambique, with a coral reef laying just off the coast. There are dolphins, turtles and humpback whales. For longer excursions, and to get away from the crowds, the Quirimbas are just a boat excursion away. Pemba is on the verge of changing from somewhat quaintly provincial to urban sprawl, and the recent discovery of off-shore gas deposits is likely to speed that process up. In the meantime, however, stop by for a dive, some seafood and a dhow trip.

The Quirimbas is a string of 32 idyllic islands along Mozambique's northern coast. This archipelago contains a bit of everything: pristine beaches, ancient settlements, luscious mangroves, amazing dive sites, beautiful coral reefs, pods of dolphins, warm water, a huge variety of tropical fish, an abundance of fruit and as much seafood as you can eat. Although dotted with important settlements in the past, the Quirimbas Archipelago is now virtually unknown to the outside world, and only visit by few tourists. The days are hot, and life is slow - much as it was a hundred years ago. So take a dhow trip around the islands, lounge on one of the endless white beaches and go for a swim in the azure Indian Ocean - you probably deserve it.

Tofo beach is THE beach for backpackers, overlanders and whoever likes a bit of party and cool beach vibe in Mozambique. The sea is azure and the crescent shaped beach is long - though not palm fringed. Tall sand dunes stretch right to the edge of the sea in the north end, while the middle and south sections have most of the accommodations. Diving is popular and the surfing can apparently also be good, but else there isn't much more to do besides eating seafood, chilling and maybe a football match with the beach boys in the afternoon. The adorable town of Inhambane is just a chapa (minibus) ride away, making it a perfect day trip from Tofo.

The train journey between Nampula and Cuamba is a fascinating ride. First, the scenery is just spectacular with granite domes dotting the green landscape. Second, every time the train stops at some small village, the locals crowd around the train to sell their home grown products. Fruits, vegetables, eggs and grilled meat change hands through the windows at a frantic pace. Even when the train starts rolling again, the last deals are done with the committed sellers running next to the train. Each stop has a speciality, whether it's onions, garlic and carrots, and the passengers are power shopping like there is no tomorrow. The train journey is a cramped experience on 3rd class, but comfortable in 2nd class - there is no 1st class.

The white beach at Vilankulo seems almost never ending and slides into the clear turquoise sea with views of the gorgeous Bazaruto Islands. Dhows are anchored up in the shallow water before they sweep out to sea for fishing, only to return in the afternoon to unload their catch to the waiting fishmongers. At low tide, the beach becomes so wide, it gives you the impression that you could wade right out to the islands, but don't try. Instead go on a dhow safari for some chilling and snorkeling at the islands, which otherwise are reserved for luxury resorts. Accommodations in Vilankulo are spread out along the shore and lie among the small huts and houses that make up the town. This means there is a lot local life, both on the beach and in the sandy back alleys, giving Vilankulo lots of local flavour, but also at times a rough vibe.

Central Mozambique doesn't usually get much attention from travellers, as most of the top attractions are either in the north or south. Zalala is right in the middle of Mozambique's very long coastline. It has a few things going for it; mainly that it boasts an absolutely enormous, flat beach. It cannot compare to the pristine white sands of the Bazaruto or Quirimbas, but here is the second advantage of Zalala: there is nothing else to attract travellers for hundreds of kilometres to either side of it. So when driving along the length of Mozambique, Zalala is probably your best bet for breaking up the trip. Aside from the beach (and activities like sea kayaking), the main attraction here is people watching, both on and off the beach. Skipping Zalala won't ruin your trip to Mozambique, but stopping here will break up a very long journey and might add some interesting insights into life in Mozambique.