Nicaragua travel guide

Nicaraguans don't consider dogs and cats as pets, roosters are their thing. They care for them, train them and the best ones will be put into the ring for cockfighting. Though death (for the rooster) can occur the game usually ends way before, when one of cocks puts the beak to the ground. They owners gamble for big money and even bigger pride. Even if you don't approve of this kind of "sport", it is still a great way to mingle with the locals. Make sure you are welcome and get permission before taking pictures.

With mass tourism a fact of life all around the world, it is becoming harder and harder to get away from the crowds. While Nicaragua may not spring to mind when thinking of tourists hordes, it can be tough to combine someplace interesting with someplace all to yourself. But such a place does exist. Along the Rio an Juan, hugging the Nicaraguan-Costa Rican border, the tiny village of El Castillo sits silently. With the only access in and out being river ferry, just getting there can be half the fun. Then to have the 17th century fortress to greet you as you arrive is a total bonus. There are no roads, no traffic, no airports, no tourism hordes. They do have tourism facilities making the peace and quiet of remote, rural Nicaraguan life accessible. The best of both worlds.

The centre of this little colonial town is lovely and neat. The colorful traditional houses are cared for, the street signs are made of tiles, and the fine cathedral is freshly painted. But down the side streets the facades are decayed and it gets a little more gritty. Here the elders drag their rocking chair out in the evening to keep track of life. Right outside town the two volcanoes and Lago Nicaragua offers a range of nice day trips. This is the classic colonial town of Nicaragua.

Rivalling Granada as the "most" colonial town in the country, Leon leads regarding size and scruffiness. The huge worn cathedral (the biggest in Central America) build in 18th century is massive and the plaza in front is still a gathering place for the locals - not the tourists. Tourism is just too small and the town too big for that to happen. It is a big university city where students flock the faded streets at lunch time and where colonial houses still are homes for families, and not a fancy coffee shop. This is the real colonial town of Nicaragua.

Though not as grand as Granada or Leon, Masaya town has its fair share of colonial charm. Colorful houses, a cathedral and majestic twin volcanoes in the backyard. The town is mostly famous for its handicraft market (Mercado Viejo) which cater for the few tourists, domestic as well as international. The crafts range from surprisingly nice woodcarving to tacky junk, like stuffed reptiles making out. For more local stuff, like pinjatas and dead animals, head for the big mercado municipal a few hundred meters away.

San Juan del Sur is Nicaragua's best bet for a cool beach vibe. It is a place for surfers - and people who wish they were. Surf beaches like Playa Madera and Playa Marsella can be found further north and the surf is equal to that in Costa Rica, minus the overcrowding. If you get sick of just sitting around the beach, there is a nature reserve 30 minutes to the north that has great wildlife and a forest restoration site which is good to support. If you are lucky you might get a good look at a Sloth. The town itself is located in a sheltered bay with a wide beach and calm water. Nothing much is happening here (besides looking at beautiful Nicaraguan women), but maybe that is the point.

Every night from July to January tens, even hundreds, of sea turtles come out of the ocean and crawl laboriously up on the beach for lay their eggs. About six weeks later hundreds of small baby turtles dicking themselves out of the sand and rush to sea. This beach is a wet dream for any animal lover and an unique opportunity to experience the endangered Leatherback which still comes here to nest, though most of the sea turtles are of the Olive Ridley species. Though the beach is protected by the military and rangers there are few limitations for visitors, so please act responsible and do not disturb the turtles in any way. Visiting turtle sites (when done right) can actually help saving them, since the "tourist money" can give poor local communities a reason to protect the sea turtles.

Dotting the country along an almost straight line are some of Nicaragua's biggest attractions, volcanoes. Few are extinct, while most still send smoke and the occasional lava into the air. Whether you just want to view them from a distance, hike one, or descend one on a volcano board doing 70 km/h you can for sure find a suited cone for just that. Just pick one; Cosiguina, San Cristobal (highest active one), Telica, Cerro Negro (volcano boarding), El Hoyo, Momotombo (perfect cone shaped), Apoyeque, Masaya, Mombacho, Zapatera, Concepcion, or Maderas.