Panama travel guide

A cool little Caribbean town on an island. The first thing that you will see when arriving by boat to the island are the beautiful stilt mansions at the waterfront. This Caribbean architecture (large patios) mixed with island minimalism (hardly any windows) is also seen throughout the town, though modern development is slowly gaining ground. Besides the sweet Carribean vibe, the town somewhat lacks action, but if you can manage to pull yourself out the hammock you can explore the surroundings. Snorkel, cruise the mangrove, visit neighbouring islands or find a deserted beach... or do all of the above on a full-day boat trip.

At first sight, the old quarter down at the waterfront can seem worn down and very dodgy. Demolished buildings, empty lots, barbed wires, and scruffy looking people, but good thing are also happening. Historical houses are getting restored, great eateries are around the corner, police patrol the streets and local people are still hanging out on their balconies playing dominoes or singing along to some Latino tunes. It is place full of local character and very different from the flashy skyline of modern Panama city which is towering just across the bay. But beware of how far you venture off, for some of the most scary neighbourhoods are just a couple of blocks away.

If you take the Pan-American highway all the way south, this is where you will end up. Here, the road ends unannounced in the little settlement of Yaviza and leaves only dense jungle all the way to Colombia. Though Yaviza is a friendly village, the meaning of the place is the real attraction. This is the start (or end) of the legendary Darién gap, which many travellers wish to cross... but refrain from doing the trek. The possible dangers are too numerous, and getting kidnapped by some of the guerrillas seems to be the least of one's worries. There are other alternatives to get to Colombia, like sailing, so why risk it?

There seems to be some universal need to get away from the hustle and bustle of the everyday urban life, and Panama is no different. While the country offers a number of possible escapes, there are none more convenient than the tiny island of Taboga. At a mere 20 km of the coast of downtown Panama City, the island of Taboga provides an easy option for some sun, surf and fresh air. El Calypso ferry runs to and from the island a couple of times a day, making a day trip simple. For those wishing a little more time away, a few boutique hotels and restaurants provide the essentials for a romantic island getaway. With water sports, military ruins and decent beaches, Taboga is the easy urban diversion.

Digging a canal from ocean to ocean is a wicked plan, but it was nevertheless accomplished in 1914. The 77 km long canal saves ships the long and dangerous route south of Cape Horn at the tip of South America. It was originally controlled by the Americans but it was rightfully turned back to Panama in 1999. It is hard to grasp the scale of this construction just by standing at its shore, but seeing the number of ships waiting for access gives an idea. It is one of the biggest constructions man ever made, and you don't have to be an engineer to be impressed. The best place to view the ships is at Miraflores, but if you don't want to pay the entrance fee, drive a few kilometres further north-east to the docks at Pedro Miguel where you can follow the action through the fence.

Picture perfect palm-filled islands are dotting the Caribbean coast in the San Blas archipelago. Swaying coconut palms on a little strip of white sand surrounded by turquoise water seems to be the recipe here. Some of the islands are inhabited by the Kuna people who will plaster an island full of their small houses, while other islands are deserted and look like something from a Bounty chocolate commercial. One of the best ways to explore this region is by boat on a the sailing tour from Panama to Colombia (or backwards), which will also solve the problem of getting around the troubled Darién Gap.

Panama is still inhabited by seven pre-Columbian tribes, whereas Wounaan is one of them. They live along with the Embera people in the jungle in the east of the country all the way down to Darian. They tend to be friendly and welcome visitors, especially those villages with proximity to the Pan-American highway, but it is also those that are most modern. In some places, the people still go about their business semi-naked, but you need to do some river travel to reach these. Otherwise, don't be surprised to find a phone booth and western clothes in the villages.