Tunisia travel guide
Even centuries after the fall of the Roman Empire, countless architectural symbols of it's magnificence still scatter the Mediterranean coastline. While everyone knows about the Colosseum in the centre of Rome, not so many know of the UNESCO listed Amphitheatre of El Jem. Built in the 3rd century for up to 60,000 spectators, the amphitheatre is the 3rd largest of it's kind in the world. Even today, the amphitheatre is the centre of town life. Surprisingly, the area is not a touristic as you might expect for such an great site. And being so big, it's easy to escape any of the few tour groups that make it here.
Perhaps we've seen too many Hollywood movies about deserts, but for most, the first visit to a desert can be disappointing. There are no sweeping dunes, oases or camel caravans. That is, except for the area known as the Grand Oriental Erg. Spilling over Algeria, Tunisia and Libya, this massive expansive of shifting sands is everything you picture it to be. And given the options, Tunisia is the best place to see it, and the southern town of Douz makes for the best launching off point. Camel treks, nights in nomadic tents and staring at an endless sky or stars are all part of the experience not soon to be forgotten.
Few films have had more impact on pop culture than the Star Wars series. With an almost cult-like following some fans are willing to go to the ends of the Earth to capture to smallest part of the iconography. But why go to the end of the Earth when all you need to do is visit Tunisia? Scattered throughout the country are a myriad of sets, still in tact, from the filming. Everything from Luke Skywalker's home in the village of Matmata, to entire villages where Anakin prepares for pod races. Some of the best sets are in the middle of the desert and only available on tours, like the sets outside the town of Tozeur. May the force be with you!
They say "Good things come in small packages". This is certainly true about the town of Tozeur and it's pint-sized old town. It is the old town's wonderful traditional brickwork, dating back to the 14th century, laid in unique and original patterns that give the place it's 'wow' factor. Every building is carefully hand crafted to be just a little different, or tied together with a neighbourhood motif. But the town is not a one-hit wonder. The large palm forest is a pleasure to walk through as you stumble upon tiny villages tucked into the groves. Day-trips out to Ong Jemel (Star Wars set) are available. And there's a very surreal park with one of the most bizarre Mount Rushmore homages. Tozeur is full of wonderful unique oddities.
Throughout the region, the Berber people are renowned for their resourcefulness in living in some of the most inhospitable places on Earth. They manage to find a harmony with the land to provide the essentials of life, like food and shelter. Nowhere is this more apparent then in the tiny village of Matmata. In order to stay cool in the sweltering mid-summer heat and warm in the surprising cold of winter, they have building their homes into the ground, literally. 5-10 meter deep artificial craters act as a central courtyard to rooms dug into the steep walls. The best way to experience this unique accommodation is to stay overnight. It's also the best way to experience the friendly village of Matmata. Most tourists show up on luxury buses, take pictures of the cave that was Luke Skywalker's home and leave. Spending the night seems to allow the village to open up to you, before getting closed into your cave room.
The Greek island of Santorini seemed to have the monopoly on white-washed buildings with stunning blue highlights overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. But this is simply not the case. A short train trip outside of the Tunisian capital of Tunis lies the sleepy village of Sidi Bou Said. Truth is, the town is hardly a hidden gem. Tourists pour into the town to snap up the souvenirs which often have nothing to do with the town, or even Tunisia as a whole. The main street can be quite overrun. But simply taking a turn left or right will allow for quiet moments on side streets away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist feeding frenzy.
More often than not, the capital of whatever given country is the centre of life. With museums, nightlife, shopping, transport links and everything else, the Tunisian capital of Tunis is no different. While most people seem to gravitate towards the souqs, bazars and medinas in the city, there is much more up for offer. Firstly the magnificent Bardo Museum will tantalize the sense, as much for the building as the artifacts. Architecturally, the churches, embassies and such are wonderful. There are plenty of outdoor cafes and restaurants for those culinary inclined. And there are a smattering of bars and clubs to rock the night away. Tunis has what you'd expect of a capital... everything!
Far too often do magnificent old markets and bazaar turn into nothing more than tourist traps. They become places where it's more likely to find cheap Chinese-made souvenirs than local crafted arts. The main bazaar in Tunis can seem a a little like this at first. As the endless hordes of cruise travellers and package holiday vacationer clog the main artery of the bazaar, it's actually a fairly negative experience. But one alley does NOT the bazaar make! Taking any of the dozens alleys that lead off the main road will transport you to the bazaar you were hoping for. Locals meet, greet and haggle for daily products. Workmen pound away on their metal or wood. A men sit and smoke hukka/shisha/nargile before or after visiting one of the lovely mosques. In the case of the Tunis bazaar, those who wander are not lost, but rewarded.