Beaches in Africa

Ghana's favourite beach hangout for volunteers, backpackers and better-off locals from Accra is all about sand, surf and sun. The beach here is equally shared between fun-seekers, souvenir sellers and fishers, but it's kept clean and fit for swimming. As the sun sets, night time here is heavily focused on drinking and dancing until the sun returns. Most activities are centred on legendary Big Milly's Backyard with its 24-hour bar, but there are plenty of other places to stay and party that satellite Big Milly's. Should you get enough of the party vibe is Accra's more grown up attractions only a few hours tro-tro (minibus) ride away.

Getting away from the less-than-flattering atmosphere of Conakry is thankfully easy. Twenty minutes off the capital's southern harbours lie a getaway that feels worlds away. Conakry is still clear on the horizon, but the three islands making up Îles de Los are devout of the cars and stress that cramp the capital. Yellow beaches, forested interiors and fishing communities dominate these islands, and it is easy to lose oneself for days at a time here. Something most people, who have braved the big city horrors on the other side of the strait, probably deserve.

Bubaque Island is home to the largest and, without a doubt, the most important town in the Bijagós Archipelago. The island isn't just important to locals. For tourists and travellers who hope to go further out into the archipelago, Bubaque is the first stop. It's from here most transportation to the outlying islands depart, and it's the only place in the archipelago there are any facilities in the form of shops, restaurants and entertainment (read: a handful of bars and a night club). Home to Guinea-Bissau's only real tourism industry, here's also a broad range of accommodation. Although the most comfortable cater almost excusably to European sport fishers. Visitors who sit around waiting for a departure and not fluent in the fishing-lingo should consider renting a bike and make the 30 km round-trip across the island to it's best beach, Praia da Bruce.

5 km of unspoilt, human-free tropical beach (you'll have to share all that sand with a handful of cows) sounds like your thing; we have a place that will get your heart pumping with excitement. The coastal village of Varela is blessed with a truly fantastic beach that is all but deserted. Actually, it has two such beaches. The main beach stretches north, for more than 5 km towards Senegal, while a smaller beach to the south sits in a lovely, palm-fringed cove. The reason for the paradise's absent of tourists? First of all, very few visitors bother to come to Guinea-Bissau. Secondly, Varela sits at the end of an appalling bad road, on which it takes the one daily minibus, four hours to navigate just 45 km. But the hardship of getting here is definitely worth it.

Tiwi and Diani Beach are neighbouring coastal destinations just south of Mombasa. They are justifiably popular due to their close proximity to Mombasa, but that is all they have in common. Tiwi (pictured) is the more secluded of the two. It is set up almost exclusively for self-caterers, which makes it less ideal for those without access to a car. The beach here offers a greater degree of privacy, and the number of beach boys selling snorkelling trips or fresh fish is decidedly smaller than at its busier neighbour. Diani Beach boasts a nicer beach and a much wider range of accommodation options. There are restaurants, supermarkets, a surprisingly large local market and a bit of a night scene. Expect more hassle on the beach, however.

Liberia's bloody history is largely a result of inequalities and hostilities between an elite of freed slaves, who settled around Monrovia, and the poor indigenous population living upcountry. Things boiled over in 1980. A group of petty officers led by master-sergeant Samuel Doe entered the Executive Mansion under cover of darkness and found President Tolbert in his pyjamas. He was executed on the spot, shot in the head several times and disembowelled. Ten days later, thirteen senior members of Tolbert's government was tied to poles on the beach below the mansion and executed in brutal fashion. Once the firing party had done its job, bloodlust took over and soldiers fired hundreds of rounds into the lifeless bodies, while a crowd of thousands cheered them on. The Mansion's bloody history have lived on, with rumours of both Doe and later Charles Taylor participating in ritual killings and cannibalism while acting as presidents. Little evidence of the beach's bloody history is left, but it's a compulsorily stop for anyone seeking to understand Liberia's recent history.

Liberia's surfers are few and far between; however, they all seem to congregate on Robertsport a few hours north of Monrovia. The town itself is little more than a large fishing hamlet, located on the peninsula were Liberia's largest "lake", Lake Piso runs into the Atlantic Ocean. The surfing, the golden sand and jungle covered hills behind town make this an attractive setting for a few days. A couple of nice guesthouses make this a first class weekend getaway from Monrovia or a decent stop for anyone touring the country. However, don't expect anything in the form of facilities, so come equipped with enough dollars for your stay.

At the tip of a peninsula at the bottom of gorgeous Lake Malawi lies adorable Cape Maclear. The rural village has been a favourite of backpackers and overlanders for decades, and for a good reason. Green mountains make up the inland while the lakeshore is blessed with a narrow sandy beach. The village is a one lane place with shady baobab trees. The men go out on the lake for fishing in small canoes, while the women are constantly washing at the edge of the lake, with playful kids everywhere. The main event of the day is sunset, when the sky turns bright orange before the sun burns out behind the hilly horizon across the lake. Be prepared with the cold drinks for the spectacle is rather short. Afterwards, the night gets filled with African rythms pumping from the small bars along the beach.

Senga Bay is the closest beach to Lilongwe, and is a very pleasant place to spend a few days. Senga Bay itself is a sleepy village, but nearby Salima has shops, fuel and ATMs. The Ilala ferry does not stop here, so it can only be reached by road - two hours from Lilongwe or Nkhotakhota, two and a half from Cape Maclear. Senga Bay is a fishing village, and boats line the beach in the village itself. Fruit and various snacks can be purchased. Diving, snorkelling, kayaking, trips to Lizard Island and beach barbeques make Senga Bay an easy place to spend a few days if travelling up or down Malawi, or a convenient weekend trip for anyone based in Lilongwe. The beach itself is nice (for Malawi) but quite narrow - the result of illegal sand mining and consequent erosion. There are plenty of (real and meaningful) volunteer opportunities in Senga Bay for those wishing to stay a bit longer.

The beach down at the fish market is covered in colorful wooden boats, many named after European football clubs. When the boats return from the sea (mostly around afternoon at 3pm) men gather around to carry the catch to the nearby fish market, while others lift the boat out of the crashing surf. It's an extremely lively and chaotic place, and can feel intimidating at first, but people (mostly Wolof and Fula) are friendly and mostly indifferent of your present.