Capitals in Africa

The first thing a visitor to Liberia's capital notice is that it's more orderly designed than many other African capitals. Laid out in an easy to follow grid system, getting one's barrings is relatively easy. Something which is useful as Monrovia bears many other traits of the typical African capital. It's Liberia's best place for quality meals and nightlife, good if overpriced accommodation, and the hit-and-miss national museum. Waterside Market is an epicentre for local and traditional clothes and cloths bought by the metre. Otherwise just hang around anywhere in downtown at dusk when the city centre becomes a lively, if not chaotic, clothes market – most items sold directly out of wheelbarrows.

Lilongwe is another nondescript African capital. It's hardly a city, just a very spreadout town with different neighbourghoods, none more attractive than the others. Dirty Lilongwe River runs through town and a visit gives an grim, though interesting, insight into poverty ridden Lilongwe. The chaotic local markets are always a good place for some people watching and if you need to pick up some souvenirs, try the surprisingly big craft market outside the post office. Oddly, there is a nature sancturary right in the middle of Lilongwe, which might be worth a look if you are stranded for too many days, but else there isn't a hell of a lot to see or do in Lilongwe.

Mali's capital can be a challenge. Bamako is a necessary transport and visa stop for most travellers, but unless you thrive in hot, heavy trafficked and overcrowded cities you're not likely to enjoy it here. It's dry, dusty and dirty. Dust and car fumes will make eyes itch and the throat sore; the garbage littered streets will probably make you twitch – try breaking through the mouth. However, as the place is hard to avoid why not make the best of it? The National Museum and adjutant botanic garden are among the best in West Africa and a pleasant escape from the city's hassle. The nightlife's vivid and the music scene rival those of Dakar and Conakry – traditional music and lessons are also easily arranged. If night time drinking doesn't do the trick, many guesthouses can arrange booze cruises on the Niger. Lastly, the northern hill of Point G offers some great views of the city. Alternatively, simply stroll through the lobby of Hotel de l'Amitié like you own it, take the lift up to the 14th floor and enjoy the view from there.

In 1957, a conference of Bidan elders voted to build Mauritania's new capital on the site Nouakchott occupies today. Previous the only human presence had been a French army outpost. Today around 1 million call Nouakchott home. Calling Nouakchott a highlight of visiting Mauritania would be pushing it, to say the least. But you might very well find yourself forced to pass through at some point, so you might well make the best of it. In a country where chairs are hard to come by – the nomadic tradition of sitting, eating and socialising on mats is still predominant in most of the country – Nouakchott is the only place with something that can realistically be described as cafe life. Most interesting sight is the fish market on the beach 6 km west of town when boats return late afternoon. The city's markets are also the best stocked and finding traditional crafts, like silverware, can be an enjoyable outing. If you're desperate are the three main mosques worth a quick snapshot. Known based on who funded them there's a Moroccan mosque, a Saudi mosque and an Iranian mosque.

Port Louis is a lovely break from the otherwise easy beach life. It's noisy, crowded and run down, but it has an interesting vibe. There are dilapidated colonial buildings and palmy squares, but the only real sight is the UNESCO enlisted Aapravasi Ghat. The orderly central market is full of vegetables on ground level and textile on the first floor. For some excellent Chinese food head to the well-stocked China Town a few blocks down.

Maputo is a wonderful mix of worn Potuguese colonial leftovers, concrete mansions, palm lined avenues and a few high-rises here and there - and lots of potholes. It has a beautiful seaside location with a long beach (Costa do Sol) within chapa (minibus) distance, but also a fair share of scruffy areas. Downtown is bustling but never hectic, and the central market is colourful and surprisingly small and tranquil. There are street cafes on the main avenues and small shack bars with plastic chairs that spill onto the side streets in the afternoon. Maputo is known for its friendly vibe and has enough charisma and character to charm anyone who chooses to explore the city for a couple of days.

Niger's capital and biggest city is wonderfully laid back and hassle free. Even the central market is an almost chilled experience, and it's possible to walk through the narrow and colourful corridors without experience a single hard sell. Both the market and the city as a whole have a more Middle Eastern and Islamic feel to it than other Sahel capitals, like Ouagadougou or Bamako. It's also the most visible diverse city in West Africa. From the Tuaregs from the Sahara in the north to the Hausas no the Nigerian border and ethnic group in between, all still largely wear traditional outfits, which hugely differ from one another, making it a distinct ethnological experience to walk the city's streets.

A visit to the capital of Réunion is usually done rather quickly. The city center is small with more than a handful of charming well-preserved colonial mansions. No building is higher than three stories and most of the sights are within walking distance. The cannon and palm lined waterfront, La Barachois, has great views of the dramatic mountains which rise vertically out of the sea right outside Saint-Denis.

Up and down, and up and down... Kigali is Rwanda in miniature. The city is spread over many hills, making it a bit difficult to find your way around. Luckily, fairly cheap moto-taxis (and, watch this, with helmets) are everywhere to take you to most places. Kigali doesn't fit the idea you could have of an African capital: with its large tree-lined and well-manicured boulevards, extremely clean and safe streets, its people driving slowly and cautiously and no real city centre to speak of, it looks more like a very civilised busy suburb. However, it is the kind of city that grows on you, and when you get to explore its diverse neighbourhoods, meet their friendly inhabitants, and take in the superb views of the surrounding hills, you can't help but start to love it.

The capital of São Tomé and Príncipe is also called São Tomé. Though a third of the nation's total population of about 200,000 lives here, it feels like a giant village, wonderful lively and compact. Most buildings are worn out, even the colonial ones, but the town has plenty of charm and character. The waterfront is interesting and so is the open market, if you like people watching.