National Parks in Africa
Etosha National Park is huge - over 22,000 square kilometres, not much smaller than Belgium. The habitat varies greatly, from thick shrub and woodland to open grassland and the massive Etosha saltpan. Too big to drive around during a normal visit, the waterholes are the big drawcards: park yourself by one and watch oryx, wildebeest, ostrich, springbok, elephant, giraffe, zebra and perhaps rhinos or lions come for a drink. The roads are mostly excellent, so getting around is easy, and the photographic opportunities are endless. Winter and spring are the best times to see wildlife congregate around the waterholes, whilst visiting in late autumn (April to June) will mean that the much greener park is virtually yours alone, as few other visitors make their way here at this time of the year. As always, early mornings and late afternoons provide the best light and the best chances of seeing cats, although waterholes are frequented anytime as soon as the heat has begun to build up, from late morning onwards.
Named after a w-shaped bend in the Niger River and extends into large parts of Burkina Faso and Benin. The 2,200-square kilometre Nigerien part of the park is home to elephants, hippos, buffaloes, baboons, warthogs and numerous types of antelope. Here's also lions and leopards roaming the park, but they stay well hidden from visitors' eyes. In general, it's one of the better parks in West Africa and well worth a visit. While you'll need your own wheels to visit, the Nigerien part of Parc du W is easier accessed than its Burkina or Benin counterparts. The park can be reached on a day-trip from Niamey, but it's much more worthwhile to visit overnight as animal sightings are likelier during dusk and dawn when the scoring sun has retreated, and the animals leave their shady hideouts.
Akagera National Park is far from being the top safari place in Africa, but it is the only one in Rwanda. The park was cut in half several years ago to make place for returning Rwandan refugees after the genocide. As a result of this human invasion, the remaining animals fled to Tanzania, giving Akagera the reputation of being a 'vegetarian safari' park. The situation has improved since then, but don't expect to check all of your Big Five list here. Animals that are most likely to be seen are buffaloes, hippos, zebras, giraffes, baboons, topis, impalas, warthogs, elephants, crocodiles and several species of monkeys and birds. The most abundant species, however, might be the tsetse fly, especially in the southern part of the park. Be prepared for a fierce battle with this nasty insect.
About 40% of Principe Island is a national park of virgin jungle. The other part is almost as lush and green with more jungle between the gardens of banana, coffee and cacao. Characteristic jungle covered pinnacles make up the skyline of the national park. There are several good hikes, including to the peak Pico Papagaio (700 m) and to O Que Pipi Waterfall.
The only place in the world where you can walk in a Coco de Mer palm forest is the UNESCO World Heritage enlisted Vallée De Mai. Coco de Mer palm is endemic to the Seychelles islands of Praslin and Curieuse and produces the world's largest and heaviest nut, the fruit (green one) can weigh up to 40 kg and the seed (brown one) up to 18 kg. The outside world actually knew about the Coco de Mer before the Seychelles were discovered, as nuts had been carried by the ocean currents to distant shores on the Maldives, India and Indonesia. Seamen thought they were from an underwater forest, therefore the name "coconut of the sea". The double nut is the national symbol of the Seychelles and even the passport stamp is shaped like a Coco de Mer nut. Every single Coco de Mer palm is owned by the government, even if it grows on private land, and heavy fines and prison terms apply for stealing one. However, it's possible to buy a nut (with export permit) at the souvenir shop on site.
Sierra Leone's only ecotourism project is well worth a visit. Set up in Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary in the middle of the Moa River, the site was initially built by Peace Corps volunteers before being raided and destroyed during the civil war. Now rebuild, it is again possible to enjoy the island's wildlife. Eleven different kinds of primates live her, including chimpanzees, Diana monkeys and endangered red howlers. This is also one of the best spots to hunt the elusive and endangered pygmy hippopotamus, though glimpses of these animals are only for the lucky few. The facilities offer tended accommodation, food (sometimes even beers), guided walks and boat tours, all very reasonably priced.
For all the talk about the Big Five, here is a park that contains the Big Seven - the usual suspects (elephant, rhino, lion, leopard and buffalo) plus southern right whales and great white sharks. Whilst Addo is no Kruger or Serengeti, it is one of the best places in the Eastern Cape to see at least four of the big five (the dense shrub that covers much of the park makes leopard sightings fairly hard to come by). Kudu, ostriches, zebras and springbok are also common. Like many of South Africa's parks and reserves it does not feel particularly wild - the paved roads and lack of minor tracks contribute greatly to this, as do the adjacent farmlands - but the chance to see a herd of elephants or a pride of lions with a backdrop of white sand dunes and an azure Indian Ocean is pretty incredible. The parts of the park that contain open grassland rather than dense bush, such as the Vukani and Gorah Loops, are best for spotting wildlife, although the waterholes attract a lot of animals when it is dry. Separated from the rest of the park by the N2, the coastal section is also beautiful, and whales are frequently spotted here during winter and spring.
Hluhluwe-iMfolozi is Africa's oldest proclaimed park and KwaZulu-Natal's only state-run park containing all of the Big Five. In fact, thanks to a massive conservation effort Hluhluwe-iMfolozi now has the world's largest population of white rhinos, as well as African wild dogs and plenty of other rare species. It is a beautiful park, with varied flora and a lot of space. Tracking rhinos is one of the most thrilling experiences possible in Africa, and with such high numbers Hluhluwe-iMfolozi is an ideal place to try it. South African parks often feel a bit over-managed, and Hluhluwe-iMfolozi is no exception - roads are paved, and no off-road driving is allowed - but the feeling is not as strong as it is in busier parks such as Kruger, and it really is an excellent park. For a real wilderness experience, however, going on a multi-day walking trail is an excellent option, as it will take you off the roads and away from all other visitors.
Camdeboo National Park is part of the Karoo, South Africa's vast, inland semi-desert. The park is divided into different sections; one is dedicated to wildlife viewing (but feels more like an open-air zoo due to its small size and fenced boundaries), whereas others are wide open and provide absolutely stunning views. The Valley of Desolation, made up of massive vertical dolorite columns, is without a doubt the most scenically striking part of the park, with vistas in all directions. It is an easy drive to get up, and the informative walk around the "peak" is worthwhile. You have a reasonably good chance of seeing leopard tortoises, lizards, oryx, kudu, duiker, hartebeest and vervet monkeys - don't feed them! - and the park boasts an impressive number of plant species, many of which are succulents endemic to the region. There are also more than seventy species of flowering plants, and the area comes alive with colour every spring and summer. Highly recommended!
© Matt Hamilton
Nestled in the northern Transkei region, Mkambati is an 8000-hectare, isolated region of South Africa that is often overlooked by travellers. Spend a day exploring the Msikaba River and its forested ravine towards the spectacular Superbowl, a towering 100 m natural amphitheatre. Spend another day rock-hopping the 10 km coastline and the Mkambati River. This snaking river contains numerous swimming holes and waterfalls, highlighted by Horseshoe Falls, a rare double-tiered waterfall that tumbles directly into the Indian Ocean. Every day, as you wander through the grassy plains, you will be surrounded by wildlife. Whether it's the vulture colony, the troops of baboons or the herds of wildebeest and gemsbok that run freely throughout the reserve, you will be amazed at how close to the natural world you are.