Borneo travel guide
The Kinabatangan River meanders through Northeast Borneo for 560 kilometres. Because of the encroaching palm oil plantations, wildlife has been squeezed into the forest reserves that border the river. Batu Puteh sits along the river in the Pin-Supu Forest Reserve. The people of Batu Puteh have established a community-based forest restoration project that is very successful, restoring forest that has been illegally logged in the past. A great way to experience the jungle, and do something good for our planet, is to volunteer your time in the village. You get to see the amazing biodiversity of Borneo, and meet some very cool people. All of the wildlife congregrates on the banks of the Kinabatangan in late afternoon, making animal viewing very easy.
If you like monkeys, this might not be for you... but one of the main meat sources for indigenous groups throughout Sarawak is monkey. There are many different species (nine, to be more precise) to choose from for a traditional jungle meal, but it really depends on what the hunters catch. They can prepare it in many ways, and each way tastes unique - yes, even delicious. If in a small village, keep in mind that dinner is whatever the hunters catch, and in Borneo there are a lot of options of things to hunt!
One thing that makes Mt. Kinabalu stand out from other mountains is the fact that it is possible to take in its full scale. On a clear day you can splash around in the South Chinese Sea along Borneo's shore and see Mt. Kinabalu's grey dome rise dramatically above the green and lush jungle less than 50 km inland. Today, no skills are required to trek it and the tracks are well marked. It can be done in a very long day, but two days are strongly recommended. This way you can get some rest in one of the huts below the bald granite, before heading for Low's peak, which is the highest point, in total darkness to watch the sunrise light up Borneo.
Climbing Mt. Santubong is a great thing to do if you feel like doing 'something active'. The mountain isn't particularly high, only 810 m, but you have to scale all 810 metres since you start at sea level. There are several starting points at the base, but as you ascend, the trails merge into one. At first, it's just a modest ascent, but then steep sections with roots come up. Fixed ropes are available, to pull yourself up over the biggest steps. Then, some modest up-down-and-more-up trail through the jungle before the real fun starts. Vertical jungle has to be climbed with the use of fixed rope ladders and exposed roots. None of the sections are particularly high or dangerous, but they just keep coming. The ascent will take about 3 to 5 hours and the descent about the same - it takes longer time to climb down rope ladders than up. Surprisingly, the view isn't as pretty as you might expect, but the adventurous journey is totally worth it.
Big holes, tunnels and cave systems with the biggest known cave chamber (Sarawak Chamber) exist here in Mulu National Park. Some of the caves are show caves with boardwalks and artificial lights on the stalagmites and stalactites, but real caving trips are also possible to arrange with one of the national park's experienced guides. Seeing the Sarawak Chamber (600 m x 415 m x 80 m) is a very difficult and demanding expedition, so don't count on seeing it on your first trip underground. Overground, the jungle and its wildlife can be explored from canopy walks spanning between the tree tops. Don't forget to see the bat exodus at dusk, where millions of bats set out from the caves on their hunt for food. They just keep coming out and draw thick waves in the evening sky. An incredible sight not to be missed.
Not just some impressive caves with human record going some 40,000 years back and rock painting dating 1200 years back, but also a major site for bird nest harvesting. These swiftlet's nests are some of the most expensive food item on the globe and go for about US$500 per kilo in Hong Kong where they are made into bird nest soup. At Niah, the nests are still harvested the old fashion way where the collector climbs 60 metres up the air on thin poles to reach the nests under the cave roof. No serious safety equipment is used and fatal accidents usually happen every year. The harvest season runs from January to March and then again from August to December.
It comes as a surprise to many that Sarawak doesn't have an abundance of tropical sandy beaches with clear blue water. Long stretches of Sarawak's coastline are covered in jungle, swamp, mangrove or rocks. However, patches of white sand do exist. In the western end of Sarawak, near Lundu, are several nice beaches where Pandan Beach is one among others. It's a long palm-lined beach with rocky outcrops at the ends. Keep in mind that it's a two-hour drive from Kuching, making it not the obvious choice for a day in the sun as there are beaches closer by, like on Damai Peninsula.
Borneo is filled with many different ethnic groups that have traditionally lived sustainably off the forest. The Penan are one of the last groups of hunter-gatherers that reside in Borneo. Take an adventure up the Baram River and experience how the Penan live. The forest is prehistoric and the Penan are the true experts of the rainforest. Let them share their vast knowledge from medicinal value in plants to how to set up a Penan jungle camp in less than an hour. The Penan still have a strong culture and have many spiritual beliefs that are connected to the forest. Spend a few days camping in the forests, hiking to beautiful waterfalls, climbing unclimbed mountains, and absorbing insight on the forest. Do a homestay and spend time with a host family and see how they go about their daily lives. The Upper Baram is truly an untouched wilderness, with limited or no contact with the outside world.
Take the ancient ferry boat from Kudat and head for the island of Pulau Banggi. The majority of the island is uninhabited, with dirt tracks giving you access to the beauties of this island. Near the ferry landing there is a guesthouse with a tree house, and they will rent you a 4x4 truck to explore the island. You will find pristine forest, mangrove-lined rivers (with big crocodiles), and beautiful quiet beaches. Spend an afternoon roaming through the water villages along the coast in the main town and to find a fisherman to take you to the smaller islands surrounding Pulau Banggi. Bring your fins and mask as well for the reefs are stunning. But remember, no alcohol is sold on the island, so if you want to booze, be sure to pack it in!
This is "the place" to see semi-wild orangutans in Sarawak. The centre is located 25 km outside Kuching and doesn't see that many visitors (compared to Sepilok in Sabah), not even in high tourist season (July - August). Feeding happens twice a day at the platform a couple of hundreds metres in the jungle, but there are no guaranties - the orangutans are semi-wild. Sometimes, they just hang around the park centre, especially mothers with their toddlers in tow, and then there's a pretty good chance to see them up close.