Drakensberg travel guide
In the far north of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg National Park is Cathedral Peak Nature Reserve, which has some of the most dramatic scenery of the entire Drakensberg range. It also has some of the most demanding hiking trails, and very few – well, not really any – that are even remotely flat. But those who are able to push through the pain of lots and lots of climbing will be rewarded with some absolutely stunning views of the valleys and peaks that make up the Drakensberg range. There are not many places that can compare to this area for breath-taking panoramic views, but it does its best to fullfill the old adage ‘no pain, no gain’. Cathedral Peak (3004 m) is an arduous day-walk, but there are also numerous multi-day options for those willing to carry camping gear around. For a bit of cultured learning, the San Rock Art Centre provides many interesting insight into the lives of the San, who arrived in these mountains tens of thousands of years ago. And finally, a secret for those who wish to take in the scenery without spending an entire day in hiking boots: it is possible to drive up to Mike’s Pass, which more than holds its own as far as views go even if the sense of achievement may be lacking.
Cobham Nature Reserve, at the southern end of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg National Park, is a gentle introduction to the Drakensberg. It is not particularly well visited when compared to its more famous counterparts farther north, but has some lovely walks along riverbeds and hills. It is also part of the five-day Giant’s Cup trail, which takes hikers from the famous Sani Pass to Bushman’s Nek. Most of the day hikes in this area are relatively easy, and the rolling landscape provides some stunning views. If you are lucky you might see a large herd of elands moving across the plains, and in spring and summer the alpine flowers are in bloom. There are some San rock art sites here, but they are nowhere near the parking area and can be difficult to find without a guide or a detailed map. Cobham will not necessarily be your first port of call if you are after dramatic peaks and steep climbs, but it is a beautiful spot and offers really pleasant hiking to those with a bit of extra time on their hands.
This reserve occupies the central part of the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park, and other than its namesake – the peak (3315 m) is a strenuous but popular hike – it is famous for its San rock art and as being the home of the majestic eland antelope. Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve is essentially a grassy plateau, dotted with rocky peaks and outcrops. Many of the walking trails (that total almost 300 km) follow rivers or skirt around hills, making it possible to go for long walks without having to do too much climbing. The rock art here is some of the finest in the Drakensberg, and the most popular site has an interpretive centre built around it. Bird lovers are also drawn here, as the Lammergeyer Hide provides unparalleled opportunities to view and photograph the incredibly rare bearded vulture and other endangered species. The landscape in this lofty reserve is quite frankly surreal, and very different from the more dramatic mountains farther north in the range. It would not be a complete surprise to see a hobbit or an orc wandering across a distant hill, but even in their absence this is an incredible destination.
Situated in the north-eastern corner of KwaZulu-Natal, Royal Natal National Park is one of the most beautiful parts of the Drakensberg, with plenty to keep visitors busy. The top attraction here is the Drakensberg Amphitheatre, a wall of rock more than 500 m high in places, and 5 km long. Another walk will take you to Thukela Falls, the world’s second-highest at 948 m, and you can continue to the peak of Mont-Aux-Sources where both the Thukela and Oranje rivers have their source. There are plenty of easier walks, including a couple of interpretive walks (one of them to a San rock art site) that are very undemanding. And for those who wish to rest their feet altogether there is always horseback riding, which is a popular way to take in the views. Trout fishing is also a possibility, both in one of the dams and in the Thukela and Mahai rivers. Royal Natal is without a doubt one of the most scenic parks in the Drakensberg, and has more walking options for those not able or willing to tackle the more strenuous hikes.
The Drakensberg Mountains are covered with San rock art sites, and although the locations of many of these are not made available to the public, there are some spectacular sites that are easy enough to visit. There are thought to be at least 35,000-40,000 paintings and works of art in these mountains, and there is a single site, Sebaayeni Cave, which contains 1146 individual paintings! The paintings found in this region are nowhere near as old as those in Botswana or Namibia, but many of them are incredibly well preserved, and the many information centres, brochures and guided walks makes the Drakensberg an ideal place to explore San culture. The two best places to learn more are probably the Didima San Rock Art Centre and Giant Castle's Main Cave Museum. But if you want to avoid the crowds, it might be an idea to try to sweet-talk one of the guides or rangers into showing you a site away a bit more off the beaten track - just don't expect the getting there to be easy!