Sarawak travel guide

Sarawak's touristic profile could easily have been designed based on this tranquil and lush national park. Jungle cruising in canoes on bending rivers, spotting orangutans (or maybe just their nests) while trekking, swimming under cool waterfalls, and longhouse stay with the friendly Iban people are the attractions here. Bookings need to be made from Kuching and longer expeditions deep into the jungle are possible, which will only increase the chances to see orangutans, gibbons, hornbills, and other wildlife.

The limestone hills around the smal village of Bau are holed like a Swiss cheese. Most caves are hidden and should only be explored with proper caving equipment, but two caves are easily accessible, namely the Fairy Cave (picture) and the Wind Cave, about 6 km apart outside the village of Bau.
The Wind Cave (Gua Angin) has its fair share of stalagmites, stalactites, and pillars, but is particularly known for swiftlets and bats. A boardwalk runs the length of the cave, while a small river meanders at the bottom. A cool breeze blows, earning the name to the cave.
The Fairy Cave (Gua Kapor) is a totally different story. The cave entrance is 30 metres up, accessible through a flight of stairs in a concrete tower. The cave has been a place for prayer throughout times and there are several shrines in here. The cave is huge, a lot bigger than the Wind Cave, and though there are boardwalks here too (well, concrete stairs), you can go exploring the dark parts on your own. Just remember to bring a flashlight.

Jangkar Waterfall is a multi-level waterfall set in the dense jungle close to the Indonesian border. It's a true nature gem with big boulders, deep drops, and emerald green jungle pools to cool off in after the strenuous, and at times neckbreaking, climb up. There are apparently 23 levels, whereof level 1, 2 and 7 are the most spectacular. Getting to the top (and back) is an overnight adventure. Jangkar Waterfall is not easy to get to. First, you need to get to Kampong Jangkar, which is bit of a journey itself. There you can find a local guide who will lead you through people's gardens, small pepper and rubber fields, and lush jungle before you reach the bottom of the fall. If you have a motorbike - and you dare - you can do the first part of the trek towards the fall on wheels, which is stupid but lots of fun.

Deep in the jungle close to the Indonesian border lays the friendly Kelabit Highlands. Located on a plateau 1000 m above sea level surrounded by rugged terrain, it is only reachable by plane or a seven-day trek through dense forest. The main settlement, Bario, is still famous for its longhouses that can house up to thirty families under the same roof. Some of the elders still carry the heavy brass or hornbill-ivory ear rings and have their arms and legs covered in tribal tattoos. Homestays and multi-day treks are what the few travellers come here for in this nature rich corner of Sarawak.

If you like monkeys, this might not be for you... but one of the main meat sources for indigenous groups throughout Sarawak is monkey. There are many different species (nine, to be more precise) to choose from for a traditional jungle meal, but it really depends on what the hunters catch. They can prepare it in many ways, and each way tastes unique - yes, even delicious. If in a small village, keep in mind that dinner is whatever the hunters catch, and in Borneo there are a lot of options of things to hunt!

Climbing Mt. Santubong is a great thing to do if you feel like doing 'something active'. The mountain isn't particularly high, only 810 m, but you have to scale all 810 metres since you start at sea level. There are several starting points at the base, but as you ascend, the trails merge into one. At first, it's just a modest ascent, but then steep sections with roots come up. Fixed ropes are available, to pull yourself up over the biggest steps. Then, some modest up-down-and-more-up trail through the jungle before the real fun starts. Vertical jungle has to be climbed with the use of fixed rope ladders and exposed roots. None of the sections are particularly high or dangerous, but they just keep coming. The ascent will take about 3 to 5 hours and the descent about the same - it takes longer time to climb down rope ladders than up. Surprisingly, the view isn't as pretty as you might expect, but the adventurous journey is totally worth it.

Big holes, tunnels and cave systems with the biggest known cave chamber (Sarawak Chamber) exist here in Mulu National Park. Some of the caves are show caves with boardwalks and artificial lights on the stalagmites and stalactites, but real caving trips are also possible to arrange with one of the national park's experienced guides. Seeing the Sarawak Chamber (600 m x 415 m x 80 m) is a very difficult and demanding expedition, so don't count on seeing it on your first trip underground. Overground, the jungle and its wildlife can be explored from canopy walks spanning between the tree tops. Don't forget to see the bat exodus at dusk, where millions of bats set out from the caves on their hunt for food. They just keep coming out and draw thick waves in the evening sky. An incredible sight not to be missed.

Not just some impressive caves with human record going some 40,000 years back and rock painting dating 1200 years back, but also a major site for bird nest harvesting. These swiftlet's nests are some of the most expensive food item on the globe and go for about US$500 per kilo in Hong Kong where they are made into bird nest soup. At Niah, the nests are still harvested the old fashion way where the collector climbs 60 metres up the air on thin poles to reach the nests under the cave roof. No serious safety equipment is used and fatal accidents usually happen every year. The harvest season runs from January to March and then again from August to December.

It comes as a surprise to many that Sarawak doesn't have an abundance of tropical sandy beaches with clear blue water. Long stretches of Sarawak's coastline are covered in jungle, swamp, mangrove or rocks. However, patches of white sand do exist. In the western end of Sarawak, near Lundu, are several nice beaches where Pandan Beach is one among others. It's a long palm-lined beach with rocky outcrops at the ends. Keep in mind that it's a two-hour drive from Kuching, making it not the obvious choice for a day in the sun as there are beaches closer by, like on Damai Peninsula.

Borneo is filled with many different ethnic groups that have traditionally lived sustainably off the forest. The Penan are one of the last groups of hunter-gatherers that reside in Borneo. Take an adventure up the Baram River and experience how the Penan live. The forest is prehistoric and the Penan are the true experts of the rainforest. Let them share their vast knowledge from medicinal value in plants to how to set up a Penan jungle camp in less than an hour. The Penan still have a strong culture and have many spiritual beliefs that are connected to the forest. Spend a few days camping in the forests, hiking to beautiful waterfalls, climbing unclimbed mountains, and absorbing insight on the forest. Do a homestay and spend time with a host family and see how they go about their daily lives. The Upper Baram is truly an untouched wilderness, with limited or no contact with the outside world.