Shikuko travel guide

With a history going more than 1000 years back, Dogo Onsen is one of Japan's oldest. The current wooden bathhouse was constructed in 1894 and is beautiful with fine ornaments. The bottom floor holds the gender separated bathrooms, where each sex sit in a communal stone tub with hot springwater flowing in. Recently, an annex has been built, which also has private baths. Since Dogo Onsen has turned into a major attraction for (mostly Japanese) tourists, the area around the onsen is filled with shops and bathrobe dressed people.

Mountainous Central Shikoku has many pretty valleys to choose from, so which one to visit? Iya Valley is the obvious choice for many, since it has the natural beauty, the sights and the hot springs. Even the crazy mountain roads zigzagging into Iya Valley is a spectacle of its own, with plenty of amazing views down the deep rocky gorge. Iya Valley also has hiking trails, waterfalls and three old traditional bridges made out of vine - and a less-impressive little statue of a peeing boy on an outcrop. When tired after a long day of driving and sightseeing, relax at some of the hotels' outdoor onsen.

Kazurabashi Bridge is constructed of mountain vines, just like bridges used to be in the past, although this one has been reinforced with hidden steel cables. It's probably the biggest attraction in Iya Valley, so expect to stand in line with japanese tour groups to cross it. The bridge spans 45 m and the gaps between the narrow wooden steps gives a nerveracking view of the raging river below.

Matsuyama Castle is another fine example of a shogun castle. It was constructed in the early 17th century on a steep hill, which today grants it panoramic views over Matsuyama city in all directions. The original five story castle got hit by lightning and burned down in 1784. The current three story castle was built in the early 19th to replace it. The well-kept castle is particularly known for its precise stonework on the foundation. The inside offers more amazing views over the city and some displays with samurai swords and armors. It's interesting to see how small they must have been during the Edo period.
As the castle grounds are home to hundreds of cherry trees, it's a popular cherry blossom spot.

The mountainous centre of Shikoku is gorgeous. River cutting through steep sided valleys covered in forest with a winding road clinging to the hillside. Oboke Gorge is one of those spectacular sceneries, but with a few more tourist facilities as the racing Yoshino River below is attracting both white water rafting groups and tourist boats (obviously not on the same stretch). The train even runs along the gorge, which must offer some pretty amazing views. It's popular to combine Oboke and Koboke Gorges with a visit to the even more spectacular Ivy Valley.

The roads on mountainous Central Shikoku are, in general, in good condition, but they can be winding and narrow. The north part of the road in Iya Valley is one of the more extreme. Sections of the zigzagging two-way road are so narrow that cars can't pass each other. When they meet, one has to reverse to a wider part. Roadside mirrors are placed at many bends, but alertness and low speed is still essential to omit collision. Thankfully, Japanese are known to be courteous drivers.
Another spectacular roadtrip is the section of route 439, which connects Iya Valley with Oboke Gorge through the Kyobashira Pass (1133 m). This road is not in good condition, but it can be made in a regular car.

Quite isolated from other sights hangs this suspension bridge across gorgeous Yoshino River in the hinterland of Shikoku. Though the suspension bridge is in steel and in super condition, it's still rather exciting to cross it. There is a small parking area on the road side and waterfall on the opposite side.

Another temple belonging to the famous pilgrimage Shikoku 88 is Daihou-ji, Temple 44. Its name means "Temple of Great Treasure", though the temple probably doesn't have such, but there is a life size statue of a clearly aged verdigris green Buddha resting on lotus leaves and crowned with figures of mini Buddhas. The temple sits among tall cypress trees and giant bamboos, but is less impressive than Temple 45, 11 kilometres away. However, Temple 44 is easier accessible with a road leading right up to the temple gates, if that's important.

Shikoku 88 is a famous pilgrimage route connecting 88 of Shikoku's temple. It's mostly done by Japanese Buddhists, but none buddhists are welcome too. The full pilgrimage will take about 1-2 months to complete by foot, but you can settle on just some of the temples and see them by car (plus a bit of hiking). If you only visit one temple, make it Iwaya-ji, Temple 45. Parking is about 20 minutes hike from the temple. The trail leads through the forest and pass temple flags and Buddhist statues on the way. The temple itself is on multiple levels and beautiful nested against a cliff face with forest to the other sides. It's a tranquil place which invites to contemplation.

The Tengu Highlands are known for its beautiful karst landscape and alpine meadows with grazing cows. On clear days the views from the plateau can feel endless, but it isn't any less spectacular on cloudy or snowy (in winter) days as the sweeping grasslands get enveloped in fog (or snow). The journey to get to Tengu Highlands is half of the adventure with twisting mountain roads with hairpin bends. Many sections are too narrow to let two cars pass, so one has to reverse. Route 383, which traverses the plateau, is also known as "the road of the sky".