Sulawesi travel guide

Most people who travel to the Togean Islands are catching a boat from Ampana (there are also boats from Gorontalo). Thought the town itself is very ordinary and low key, its location is rather beautiful at the foot of green mountains and right on the shore. There are some fine pebble stone beaches (the best belonging to hotels), if you want an appetizer of beach life before you hit the Togeans.

The beach at Bira is so popular with locals, that it suffers from the crowds. Trash is pilling up everywhere, the congested lanes leading down to the beach are lined with concrete guesthouses and snack stalls, and the actually stretch of sandy beach is mostly used for selfies. However, about one kilometer down the coast you will find Bara Beach. A long - and at some sections narrow - beach with plenty of shade from the black lava rocks. There are a few tranquil resorts, some with wooden terraces overhanging the cliffs and with panoramic views over the turquoise water and reef. There is fairly good snorkeling a short swim from shore, particular where the reef breaks off, but expect current. Bara Beach and the resorts at this end are the reason you should come to Bira – not Bira Beach itself.

Every evening hordes of hornbills past by the small village of Tumbulawa on the Togean Islands. During the day the hornbills have feasted in jungle, but for sleeping they prefer the mangrove next to village. Right when the sun sets (at about 6 pm) they emerge from the jungle in the horizon and glide graceious home over the tree tops. Expect more than a hundred hornbills of the smaller Sulawesi spiece, where males have white heads. There is a watch tower, which gives you (if you dare to climb the rusty ladder) panoramic view over the canopy of the jungle and unobstructed view of the hornbills in flight.

Luwuk is one of those places you go to, to go to somewhere else. But don't stress too much, if you have to stay a night or two. Though the town is fairly large, it's pleasant with well stock shops and even a supermarket. If you want to see something different than the market and harbour, there is a waterfall 3 km west of town. Luwuk is locally famous for its tuna, so try to track down some - else just indulge in their other delicious sea food.

While on the Togean Islands, it's possible to visit some sea gypsies, so called Bajau. Though some of these still live in stilt villages on offshore reefs, most live in settlements on the shore of an island. These less-sea villages might even have a mosque and a couple of shops. The sea gypsies might be a bit more reserved than the usual overfriendly Indonesians, but they don't seem to mind visitors.

Tana Toraja is a region of exceptional beauty and soaked in the rich Toraja culture. The pretty countryside is a patchwork of mountains, terraced rice paddy fields, and small villages with rows of traditional Torajan houses with boat-shaped roof. Since death plays a central role in the Toraja culture, many of the region's sights have something to do with that. There are cave graves, hanging coffins, "baby in a tree" grave, and the very bloody Torajan funerals, where pigs and buffaloes are slaughtered in great numbers. Strangely – or should we say luckily – the Toraja people don't mind uninvited guests to these mind blowing events, as long as you act accordingly (wear dark and bring a gift). The main town in Tana Toraja is Rantepao and where most travellers base themselves, while exploring the region, but there are homestays throughout the region. It is recommended to hire a guide for the graves can be hard to find, and they know when and where the funerals are and what to bring.

The Toraja people have several ways to get buried. Babies can get buried inside a trunk of a particularly chosen tree. Grown ups can get a house grave in a more normal looking mausoleum made of concrete and tiles. A more fascinating burial tradition are the cave graves, where a small cave is hollowed out of a boulder and mounted with small door and maybe guarded by tau-tau statues who looks like the deceased. This kind of graves are still in use today. Previously they also hang the coffins inside natural caves. There a family could have a hanging coffin and restuff it every time a family member passed away. Though this tradition has more or less eased out, there are still a lot of hanging coffins left in the Tana Toraja region, some not dating more than 20 years back.

A Toraja funeral is a full on event that can last for days, sometimes even weeks, all depending on the family wealth. As funerals are expensive the deceased has often been dead for a long time, up to several years, before the funeral is held. During that time the body is injected with formalin and kept in the house, where the deceased will be considered "sick" and offered to join meals. During the funeral ceremonial slaughtering will take place. Pigs are tied up and killed with a deep stab to the lungs, while buffaloes have their throat sliced. Sometimes, a buffalo get loose during the killing and run with spraying blood into the screaming funeral crowd – hopefully not resulting in another funeral. When the coffin finally has to be taken to the final resting place, let it be a cave or mausoleum, it will get push around, as the carriers on each side of the coffin are "battling" each other. Expect a lot of waiting at a Toraja funeral, but when the action starts, it will be one of the most mind blowing thing you have ever attended.

Tentena is a one street town on the north shore of Lake Poso surrounded by pretty hills. It makes a nice overnight stop on route from Tana Toraja to Ampana and the Togean Islands. If you choose to stay longer, there are stuff to do and see in the area like treks, lake beaches, and apparently a waterfall.

The Togean Islands are a handful of jungle covered islands surrounded by aquamarine water and coral reefs. They are as pretty and postcard perfect as one would imagine with secluded white beaches and shady coconut palms. Thankfully, it takes a long time to reach the Togean Islands, so the Bali crowd haven't found their way here (yet). There are small fishing villages on the islands, but most resorts and guest houses lie isolated with their own beach and reef. The main things to do are snorkeling, diving, and, of course, lying in a hammock, but you can also go on excursions. There are sea gypsies living on the sea, the odd Jellyfish Lake full of harmless jellyfish, hordes of hornbills, and you can even climb volcano Gunung Colo on Pulau Una Una.