Sumatra travel guide

On the 26th of December 2004, a devastating earth quake of magnitude 9.3 hit Banda Aceh. What wasn't toppled by the quake itself was quickly demolished afterwards by the gigantic tsunami, which continued its apocalyptic ravage to coastal areas all over South Asia. 61,000 people lost their lives in Banda Aceh alone, roughly a third of the city's population. Today, Banda Aceh has been rebuilt and there is not much left of the tsunami aftermath anymore, but every person has a heartbreaking story to tell. To add to Banda Aceh's tragical past, it has also been the centre of armed conflict between government forces and Aceh separatists, but the region of Aceh is on the rebound and on to something good.

Bukit Lawang is a small tourist village setup inside the Gunung Leuser National Park. It is famous due to the proximity to the orangutan rehabilitation centre just across the river. There are lots of alternative "backpacker" accommodations on the river bank and banana pancake can be found on the menus. Though seeing orangutans at the feeding platform is the main thing for most visitors, jungle treks and wildlife watching can be done inside Gunung Leuser NP and you can go tubing on the river on those lazy afternoons (but check the water level first - in 2003, the whole place was washed away by a huge flash flood).

There are a few things in this world you have to see before believing them and the Rafflesia (Rafflesia arnoldii) is one of them. It is the biggest flower on the planet. It is huge, plastic-like and smelly. More than a meter in diameter, it can weigh more than 10 kg, and its perfume resembles the smell of rotten meat. This rare flower only blooms for a few weeks and then it is gone. The season is between August and November and the locals know where to find the blooming ones.

If you have the idea that Indonesian country life is idyllic, Harau Valley is just the right place to get your beliefs confirmed. Small villages stand in a sea of vibrant green rice fields enclosed by towering, 100-metre steep cliffs semi-covered in jungle. There is even a waterfall (though not big), just to top it off. You can still see traditional Minangkabau houses with their distinctive roofs, shaped like buffalo horns. It's all just so stunning and there are several home-stays, so you can even extend your visit here. The best way to visit Harau Valley is with your own set of wheels, so rent a scooter in Bukittinggi.

Lake Toba (Danau Toba) is the largest lake in Southeast Asia. Going to Lake Toba usually means going to the island of Pulau Samosir in the middle of the lake. The island (well, actually a peninsula) is equally large and packed with stunning scenery of green mountains and ancient culture of the Batak people. Toba itself is a volcanic crater lake more than 500 m deep, so the clear water is always refreshingly cold. Once, Lake Toba was a must destination for groovy backpackers, but those days are long gone and the backpacker strip in the traveller friendly village of Tuk Tuk feels a bit deserted nowadays.

Sumatra is not just jungle, volcanoes and other wonders of Mother Nature, it also has Medan, the third largest city in Indonesia and the main gateway to Sumatra. Though it's polluted, dirty and noisy, it's actually not too bad. It still has some jalans with colonial appearance and some interesting markets. Motor becaks (rickshaws) roam the streets and Medan probably has some of the most pimped-out opelets (minibuses) ever - some of them hardly have any space left for passengers due to their oversized speakers which are turned up to max.

Mount Sibayak (Gunung Sibayak) is the other hikable volcano outside Berastagi beside Mount Sinabung (2,450 m). From the distance, Sibayak is less impressive than the perfect-cone Sinabung, but the hike to the crater is less strenuous and can be done leisurely in a couple of hours. The smelly volcano crater has two peaks, Puncak Antene (2,057 m) and Tapal Kuda (2,101 m). Both can be reached with a bit of scrambling and you will be rewarded with spectacular views, but don't underestimate the danger, for the cliffs are sheer and the rim is narrow. The highest peak on Sibayak mountain is Pintau (2,212 m) but it's remote, forested and inaccessible. The are several routes to the crater but some of them, if not all, can be a bit difficult to find at the start, so ask around. If you take the route down on the backside, you will pass the hot springs at Semangat Gunung (also known as Raja Berneh). Though Sibayak is considered to be one of the most accessible volcanoes to trek in Indonesia, people still get lost or hurt - an information displayed on a rusty sign at the bottom - so take care.

There are two volcanos near Berastagi that can be trekked; Sibayak (2,212 m) and Sinabung (2,450 m). The latest being the tallest one with the best view. The start of the trail can be difficult to find, but else fairly easy to follow to the top, where the stunning views are waiting. There are steep sections, where the use of hands is necessary. The trek can be done in one day from Berastagi town, but remember to get down from the summit in time before dark. Keep in mind that Mt. Sinabung is an active volcano, which can erupt anytime.

Sumatra and Borneo are the only places in the world to see wild orangutans. The best place in Sumatra is probably Bukit Lawang in the rainforest at the edge of Gunung Leuser National Park. The rehabilitation centre is placed up river on the jungle side from the village. In good Indonesian easy-going-style, nothing is fenced off at the feeding platform, so you will get VERY close to the orangutans, so keep your distance to the big ones. It's also possible to do different treks through the jungle with a local guide to see the same orangutans, and maybe some others, in their natural habitat.

As an alternative to stay inside noisy Padang, you can stay at some of the beaches both north and south of town. Long wide beaches stretch as far as the eye can see, only fringed by tall coconut palms. Thatched huts, used by locals for weekend picnics, are scattered in the palm shades. Simple beach accommodation and food can be found, but don't expect much company - besides fishermen and cheeky children, you will pretty much have the whole place to yourself.